Wire-wrapped double bail for pendants

Carol Dekle-Foss

Last week, I was able to finish my pendants and I wanted to share how I wire-wrap them with a double bail. I like using double bails because they help prevent larger pendants from turning around when worn. For the life of me, I cannot remember where I learned this. Probably a found video somewhere, most likely YouTube.

This is a simple technique that takes just a little bit of practice. I hope you find it helpful in your jewelry creations!

The below video shows how I do this with a side-drilled pendant but this process also works with a front-drilled pendant as well. It's a bit blurry in a few places. Duh, the camera cannot focus when things are so close up.















What you will need:

Pendant: The ones pictured are 30x40mm and the small one is 20x30mm

Wire: I use about 28" of 22 gauge soft wire. It's a bit easier to wrap the pendants with than 20 gauge and to me, it doesn't look as bulky. Although the smaller tree of life necklace in the right hand corner is 24 gauge. Also, I give my wire a bath of liver of sulfur first, and then clean off with a Pro Polish pad before starting the wire wrap process.

Tools: Wire-cutters, chain nose and round nose pliers.

First, put wire through hole about 2 1/2" out the other side. Then fold both wires over the top of the pendant, crossing each other, and twist together. Bend both wires perpendicular to the pendant and wrap them around the round nose pliers to make the loop. Then wrap both wires around the bottom of the loop a few times. Snip off the smaller wire with wire cutters, and then using chain nose pliers, squeeze wire in the back of pendant to hide. Continue to wrap longer wire around pendant holding tight as you go so it it nice and snug to the pendant. Wrap as far down as you would like and then start wrapping back up the pendant. Continue until you reach the top of the pendant and then cut the wire, hiding the end in the back. I then use the round nose pliers to position where I want the bail and separate loops with the chain nose pliers. To finish, I touch up with a Pro Polish pad. Whew! I think the video will help to show the process better.

Once you get the hang of it, it's a fairly easy and fun to do, plus it will give your pendants a simple, rustic feel.

Try it for yourself and if you have any questions please feel free to contact me!

Boot Camp: Fine Finishings Wire Tips Continued

by Staci Louise Smith

Barb did a wonderful post on wire.  If you missed it, you can read up on it here.

http://www.lovemyartjewelry.blogspot.com/2014/04/art-jewelry-boot-camp-fine-finishings.html

She talked about wire gauge.  I thought perhaps I could add a little bit to that, with some tips and tricks I have learned a long the way.

I like to make my necklaces as ONE large focal piece, connect solidly by wire.  This allows me to control how everything hangs and fits together.

see some of the samples below

However, this also posed problems.  First of all, I love adding stick pearls as an accent.  The holes are always too small though, usually 24 g, if I am lucky, 22g.  I found out early on that these thinner wire gauges, even 20, are not strong enough for these sort of necklaces. 

While those smaller gauges work well if you are connecting beads with wire wrapped loops (which allows for movement and won't cause pressure on the wire itself), for a connection that doesn't allow for movement, it will not end up well.

 Although I found that my necklaces I wore didn't break, some customers had problems with them. What was happening with the customers was that they would move the focal pieces up and down, adjusting how they lay a little each time.  You know what happens with you bend a wire back and forth and back and forth over time?  Yeah, it breaks.  

So I added heavier wire to secure them.  I started to wrap more wire around it, to prevent it from being able to be moved by the customer.  Still, there were plenty of times I want to use pretty beads with thinner holes.

I found a solution.  It may not work for everyone, depending on what you are doing, but it works for my designs.

What I do is take my take my heavy gauge wire- usally 18g, and make my wire wrapped loop, add my first bead, then, in the place I want the pearl I leave the spot open.  Lay that piece down for now.

 Then I feed my pearl onto the 22g wire leaving plenty of tails on each end.

Now you can lay it where you want it

Wrap the thinner wire around the thicker wire.  You are essentially wrapping the pearl onto the thicker wire

Push it close to the first bead

repeat on the other side

Warp it back around the pearl, and you can even wrap it over the first bead if you want.  wrap tight and tuck your ends in

Now add your next or last bead, and go back around the pearl and first bead with the reaming thick wire.  if the thick wire was on the backside of the pearl, this time make sure it goes across the front

backside

All done

(refer back to the above picture when you get to the end of the post)

Another wire tip, use your fine files!!!  Especially when using thicker gauge wire.  Even if you tuck an end in really good, it may be rough, just because it is so thick.  Use your needle files to gently round the end, so it won't catch or scratch anyone.  

I often run my fingers up and down a piece over and over to try to find snags.

You should also use dead soft wire for wire wrapping.  Many beginners make the mistake (like I did) of buying half or full hard wire, thinking it was stronger.  It will not work smoothly, and will not hold shape well (it forever wants to spring back to form).  Dead soft will actually hold is shape for wire wrapping better, and your hands will thank you too.

I hope that gives you some fresh things to think about where wire is concerned.

AND- since we have not had a giveaway in forever.....I am giving away the pendant shown above.  This is open to US residents only this time.

All you have to do is share this post, either on facebook, your blog, tweet it, pin it, ect.....

Then be sure to leave a comment below, with how you shared, and your email so we can contact you if you win.  A winner will be picked Monday April 21st by random generator.

(do not leave your comment on our facebook page, leave it here so it can be counted)

Good luck!

cold connections - alexander calder

mary jane dodd

alexander calder - stabile

yesterday and today are about inspiration - 

susan lenart kazmer's book not only inspires, but teaches. 

today i wanted to share a side of one of the great masters of art that some of you may not have known about. many of you may recognize alexander calder for his sculpture - huge mobiles and stabiles that are perfectly balanced... often massive metal works that float seemingly effortlessly in the air, set in motion by only a slight breeze. 

this amazing man also made jewelry - and with his very large tools i might add.

i took some pictures from another of my favorite books, calder jewelry, to show you how he used cold connections in his work. 

alexander calder 

rivets

alexander calder

wire loops

alexander calder

tabs

alexander calder

paddle ended wire

cold connections aren't what you use because you don't know how to solder. this method isn't 'less' to soldering, it's just different. 

it's a choice. 

a choice that adds much to the overall design, a choice that will challenge you to be certain that your technical and aesthetic considerations have been thought out well. 

do you want these connections to take center stage? because they certainly can

or do you want them to be what they are? a way of connecting, providing structure, movement and a subtle design influence.

i am really excited about this challenge. 

like most of you, i have to allow things to percolate for a bit before sitting down to make. whenever i would submit to art bead scene's monthly challenge i inevitably would get my entry in on the last day. simply because ideas had to move around in my brain, get filtered and distilled.

mjd - 2010 calder challenge

enjoy your weekend - here in the midatlantic, foliage is peaking. 

life is good, yes?

boot camp - hoops

mary jane dodd

hoop made with single piece of wire

i wanted to see if i could make a hoop with one piece of 16 gauge wire that met a couple of needs.

1 - attach to an ear wire in a way that holds it in place

2 - allow for a dangle on the inside

this sample hasn't gotten a liver of sulphur treatment yet or been through a tumbler, but i think you can see that it has a rustic nature that moves us into the cooler months.  using 16 gauge wire will create a frame that can handle ceramic or visually 'weightier' dangles in the center. 

wrap your wire around an object with the diameter you desire, make sure to leave at least an inch extra on each side. 

remove it from the object (i used a  mandrel), and hold the center with a pair of pliers. 

bend one piece of wire up across the pliers - this is sometimes called 'breaking the neck'

bend the wire over your round nose pliers to create a half circle.

'break the neck' again to create a loop at the top. keep in mind that you want it to be arched enough that you can not only hang it from an ear wire, but have clearance on the lower wire for a jump ring or wire wrap as well. 

at this point you will also want to trim your wire to about an inch on either side. use a hammer to flatten the ends, then file them smooth.

loop one side under and wrap around. given that this is a heavier wire, you will probably need to use pliers to accomplish this. when you get to the flattened end, tighten it against the center wire.  repeat on other side. 

use your hammer to texture and slightly flatten the hoop. a good tip for keeping your fingers safe and ensuring that you don't hammer over the wire wrappings is to place only the lower part of the hoop on your anvil or bench block. hammering on top of where wire is wrapped only weakens the wire. 

polish your metal bright (because of course, this can be made of any metal wire you like) or give it an antiqued look with liver of sulphur. polish it up and you have a hoop that is ready to be adorned. 

Basic Tips on Using Wire

When I started fiddling with various wire choices for jewelry making, I would pick up wire just about anywhere at all.

I found wire on spools, pre-measured lengths in small baggies, and various online sources where you can order it by the foot. When ordering precious metal - like sterling silver - larger quantities by the foot in large loose rolls is how I prefer to order it.

When you get it on tight spools, depending on the metal hardness and your project, you may need a pair of these nylon jaw pliers (above) to pull a length of the wire straight to get out the wiggles.

And when using flush cutters like above, your wire will either get a pointed end (above).

Or a flat end, depending on which edge of the cutters you use. I personally will always try to get a flat cut end on any finished jewelry to create less of a chance for a snag or sharp poke for the wearer.

Depending in the wire, you could also use a metal file, cup de-burrer, or fine grit sand paper to file the edges. Be aware that this filing will take away the edge of the top coat of the wire & color coated wire will then have the base metal exposed.

And no matter what...

Always tuck in the ends of your wire!

There is nothing more annoying then to have a bit of wire poking at your skin or clothes. Give your designs a bit of a trial run to see how comfortable they are. Run your fingers over it and see if there are snags.

Having to remake something or figure out what you are doing that creates a bad design will allow you to grow and change so that you will be able to create a better finished piece!

A few more basic tips:

1. Practice with cheap wire of a similar hardness and gauge.

2. Allow yourself extra wire to work with. You can always cut off excess wire - but you cannot make that piece longer.

3. Work with your tools turning away from your body. This is not only for some safety, but also because you are putting all that tension away from your body, not towards it.

4. Save precious metal scraps in their own container & sell them back for more materials!

5. Cup your hand (like a shield) around small bits of wire as you are cutting, to keep those tiny bits from launching everywhere. Especially when working close to other people. Don't cut yourself though. Be smart...

6. Wear eye protection.

7. Use sharp tools. Dull tools can cause injury.

8. Have fun! Try new stuff! Learn from mistakes. Ask friends if you get stuck. Take notes. Take classes. But most of all - get creative and enjoy what you are doing!

Hope to see the good, the bad, the ugly, the deconstructed, and reworked pieces for tomorrow's blog wire work blog hop!

Always Evolving

by Staci Smith

 

Well- I am in show prep mode once again, but this time it's jewelry shows!  Each year to try to find a new direction to go in, just a little bit.  I have been very drawn to ancient, tribal, ethnic looking items lately.  So I wanted to add some brass to my jewelry line.  I have used it a little bit here and there, like in these Boho Hoop style earrings last year.

Brass Boho Hoops

 

I was never really a fan of gold, and yet, somehow, I am now being drawn to the richness of this golden yellow metal. 

 

Along with adding brass this year, I started to make some of my own chains for charm style necklaces.  Yesterday, I finally completed one, so I am sharing it with you, since it is all I have worked on for a couple days!!!!

 

 

 

I really like the results of both the chunky chain charm style and the richness of the brass.  I will certainly be making more!!!!  I think that the brass also begs for color to be added, and so, I am beginning to add more pops of color to my work.  Always evolving.  Not sure if its a process or just because I get bored easily!  Either way, it keeps things fresh.

 

What is your favorite metal to work with?

 

Is there a metal you have been wanting to try, but just haven't done it yet?

Textured Wire Sprial Donut Connector

by Staci L. Smith

Here is just a little something you can make with your new textures- using the alphabet stamps again, combined with Stacie F's texturing wire post.

 

Take 6-8" of 12 gauge copper wire.  Spiral it into a coil, but leave a big open middle to create a sort of donut.

 

With a chasing hammer, hammer it to flatten the surface.

 

 

Then use the ball end of your chasing hammer to flatten the ends a little more.

 

 

Then I took my letter x, the period, and the letter I to make patterns on the wire.  I stamped them just like I would on sheet metal, it was just a little trickier to line them up.  Then I used my chasing hammer to flatten the wire again.

 

 

Add some liver of sulfur and polish off the high spots, and voila!  A wire textured spiral donut.

 

 

It is fun, and very sturdy, and it can be used as a pendant or a connector.

 

Hope to see what you have been playing with at our blog hop April 8th.

when one thing leads to another

mary jane dodd

yesterday was a blustery day... and many a leaf took flight...

in my head the words of samuel taylor coleridge circled about in a sing song-y type of way...

'the one red leaf, the last of its clan,

that dances as often as dance it can,

hanging so light, and hanging so high,

on the topmost twig that looks up to the sky.'

so i went to my bench and cut, shaped, hammered, filed, drilled and riveted... 

to get this... 

and once they are all done - 

these are waiting for me... 

my patience is being sorely tested - 

but i am ever so grateful for the ability to interpret and act upon what i am moved by...

new additions...soon, so very soon!

marsha neal has an etsy shop set up in honor of her mother which serves the purpose of fundraising... is is called the my mom pattie shop - think of it as a boutique, for the work found there is made by a number of people who wish to participate in this most worthy cause... 


it has been too long since i have made special pieces for the shop... i love marsha's shards - she is a ceramic artist who creates wonderful shapes, textures and patterns covered in gorgeous glazes... 


i am always on the lookout for what i feel is a great design to set off these shards... and then i got 'wrap, stitch, fold & rivet' by mary hettmansperger... and i knew that within these pages were olympic sized spring boards for me... and so for a couple of days, i was cutting, filing, bending/shaping, texturing, enameling, patinating, sealing & finishing, etc etc etc... 


(marsha will often share pics of her mom from the 60s & 70s so i chose the 1960s setting for photoediting)

an order of sheet metal and wire is on its way - these are not quite finished... but they will be soon! i love the versatility of the designs in the book... 

possibly my favorite from the group - these earrings have marsha's shards set with torched copper and beautiful fibers from lisa jurist... 

marsha's flowers set against etched copper discs... 

patinated metal discs, marsha's ceramics, my enamel or resin... the one on the right will be wrapped in fiber... 

be watching marsha's shop - or check on my blog if any of these interest you... i hope to have them listed by monday - 

and thank you for supporting such a worthy cause... 

there will be more photos on flickr - the color here isn't optimal...