Showing posts with label pearls. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pearls. Show all posts

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Boot Camp: Fine Finishings Wire Tips Continued

by Staci Louise Smith

Barb did a wonderful post on wire.  If you missed it, you can read up on it here.


She talked about wire gauge.  I thought perhaps I could add a little bit to that, with some tips and tricks I have learned a long the way.

I like to make my necklaces as ONE large focal piece, connect solidly by wire.  This allows me to control how everything hangs and fits together.

see some of the samples below




However, this also posed problems.  First of all, I love adding stick pearls as an accent.  The holes are always too small though, usually 24 g, if I am lucky, 22g.  I found out early on that these thinner wire gauges, even 20, are not strong enough for these sort of necklaces. 

While those smaller gauges work well if you are connecting beads with wire wrapped loops (which allows for movement and won't cause pressure on the wire itself), for a connection that doesn't allow for movement, it will not end up well.

 Although I found that my necklaces I wore didn't break, some customers had problems with them. What was happening with the customers was that they would move the focal pieces up and down, adjusting how they lay a little each time.  You know what happens with you bend a wire back and forth and back and forth over time?  Yeah, it breaks.  

So I added heavier wire to secure them.  I started to wrap more wire around it, to prevent it from being able to be moved by the customer.  Still, there were plenty of times I want to use pretty beads with thinner holes.

I found a solution.  It may not work for everyone, depending on what you are doing, but it works for my designs.

What I do is take my take my heavy gauge wire- usally 18g, and make my wire wrapped loop, add my first bead, then, in the place I want the pearl I leave the spot open.  Lay that piece down for now.

 Then I feed my pearl onto the 22g wire leaving plenty of tails on each end.

Now you can lay it where you want it

Wrap the thinner wire around the thicker wire.  You are essentially wrapping the pearl onto the thicker wire

Push it close to the first bead

repeat on the other side

Warp it back around the pearl, and you can even wrap it over the first bead if you want.  wrap tight and tuck your ends in

Now add your next or last bead, and go back around the pearl and first bead with the reaming thick wire.  if the thick wire was on the backside of the pearl, this time make sure it goes across the front

backside

All done

(refer back to the above picture when you get to the end of the post)


Another wire tip, use your fine files!!!  Especially when using thicker gauge wire.  Even if you tuck an end in really good, it may be rough, just because it is so thick.  Use your needle files to gently round the end, so it won't catch or scratch anyone.  

I often run my fingers up and down a piece over and over to try to find snags.

You should also use dead soft wire for wire wrapping.  Many beginners make the mistake (like I did) of buying half or full hard wire, thinking it was stronger.  It will not work smoothly, and will not hold shape well (it forever wants to spring back to form).  Dead soft will actually hold is shape for wire wrapping better, and your hands will thank you too.

I hope that gives you some fresh things to think about where wire is concerned.

AND- since we have not had a giveaway in forever.....I am giving away the pendant shown above.  This is open to US residents only this time.

All you have to do is share this post, either on facebook, your blog, tweet it, pin it, ect.....

Then be sure to leave a comment below, with how you shared, and your email so we can contact you if you win.  A winner will be picked Monday April 21st by random generator.
(do not leave your comment on our facebook page, leave it here so it can be counted)

Good luck!

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Prong Setting Tutorial



by staci smith



So, I wrote a tutorial for the new Artisan Whimsy blog. It's a great site, and you should hop on over there. There are teams for everything from polymer to metal, desingers to bead hoarders. There are tutorials and challenges, and lots and lots of people to meet. It's a great place for resources and information.

My tutorial is just an easy, beginners way to prong set.  Here it is....
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Easy Prong Setting

by Staci Louise Smith

Materials: 

cab
sheet metal
rivets
hole punch or drill
metal shears
sharpie marker
rivet hammer
file
sanding pad or steel wool
raw hide mallet
silver solder paste
butane torch
pickle
liver of sulphur
prong setting tool or wood dowel
burnisher
flush cutters

1.  Select your cab


2.  Place it on your sheet metal and trace it with a sharpie


3.  Cut out your backplate with the metal shears


4.  trace your cab and mark where you want your holes to be- make sure your holes are close to you cab line, but not ON it, or too far from it


5.  file and sand the edges


6.  texture as desired, I used the back of a rivet hammer to add texture- you must texture before punching holes or the holes will distort


7.  Flatten back plate with your raw hide mallet


8.  punch or drill your holes - you must match your rivet wire gauge with the correct size drill bit or hole punch.  This can be a guessing game, since drill bits and hole punches aren't sized by wire gauge.  A chart like this one from Rio Grande can be very helpful.  Make sure your rivet fits snugly into the hole.



9.  Place rivets into the holes


10.  Add solder paste to the flat bottom part of the rivets, then push the down flush onto the back


11.  place on your soldering block and heat until solder flows (or until its red hot, easy solder paste should surely flow by then)


12.  Quench, pickle, clean


13.  add your cab


14.  Now its time to set your cab- fold the prongs over using one of these tools. 


I used the prong setting tool with the groove, but you can use a wood dowel or something similar if you don't have that particular tool. 



15.  Burnish the prongs to strengthen them


16.  Cut them down with flush cutters- make sure to leave enough prong to just come over the curve of your cab and hold it secure


17.  File edges of prongs- careful not to damage your cab
18.  Add liver of sulphur and polish it back when its done


19.  You now have a prong set cab. 

 
 
 
 I am also part of a blog hop taking part today, where everyone gets to show off what they made for the prong setting challenge.  If you want to check it out, you can go to my blog www.stacilouiseoriginals.com
 
I went big for this one.....................................
 
 
Lavender Mica and black fossil ammonite prong set
 
Enjoy the tutorial, and let me know if you have any questions.
 
PS- the Art Bead Love Tour is at Genea Beads- and not only can you win a chance to host the chain, but there are also two additional people who will get to win little charm packages.  So this time there are three chances to win!
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