Stacking ring love..and necessary tools.

Carol Dekle-Foss

I'm obsessed with making stacking rings! I think it's because there are so many design possibilities. I like that any small charm can be converted into a solderable, then be combined with different gemstones and metal textures to make a unique, one-of-a-kind ring. I have so many designs in my head right now!  Here are some newer ones I've made and also some I've made in the past. 

My lotus charm with textured bands and a white topaz faceted gemstone.

I'm in love with this little owl! I just sawed off the jump ring that was attached to the top of his head. The cabochon is mother of pearl.

 One of my cherry blossoms combined with berry wire.

I use a ton of different tools when making rings, but here are my favorites and the ones I can't live without.

This file rocks! It files so smooth, like a babies bottom:)

Very accurate ring sizing chart.  

Pepe ring mandrel. I recently purchased one of these and love it! My other ring mandrel completely destroyed the insides of my rings.

Flat and half-round pliers. I use these to round together the ring band wire to be soldered.

Maun flat-nose urethane parallel pliers:  I have no idea how I lived without them. The urethane even stands up to my abuse!

Digital calipers from Harbor freight. 

Mounted sandpaper roll, 400 grit. For sanding the insides of ring shanks.

AdvantEdge pumice wheel. I use the knife edge to remove metal under the charms so the ring bands fit snugly.

Locking head tweezers. They keep everything held in place and at a 90 degree angle.

Rotating soldering table. With the locking head tweezers, and this table, I can easily look at all angles of the ring to make sure its lined up and ready for soldering. Sorry, I should have taken a photo of a ring about to be soldered!

Photo courtesy of Rio Grande

My newest favorite tool! A stone-setting system.

Tube setting a faceted gemstone like the one above can be challenging. I've chipped way to many using a regular bezel pusher, so I decided to give this stone-setting system a try. It works like a charm and very easy to use. It pushes in the sides of the bezel wall evenly so the gemstone sets perfectly. I love it! Melissa Muir has an extremely helpful video on how to tube set if your interested in learning. Thank you Melissa!!! 

Sending positive thoughts and safe wishes to those in the path of this monster of a hurricane!

Giveaway Winner Announced and Progress with Texture

Written by Patti Vanderbloemen for Love My Art Jewelry

Thank you to everyone for leaving such lovely comments on these toggle clasps! I hope I have inspired you to create some of your own components, as well!

The winner of these two clasp is.... Kottage Kreations!!!  I just checked out her Etsy shop, and she does beautiful things with metal!!


Kottage Kreations, please send me an email (pattivan@verizon.net) and include your mailing address and these toggles will be sent to you ASAP!

************************************************************************

I am sticking with my theme of textures in this post. I have been practicing just a bit with the rolling mill and I am getting a bit deeper impressions on the copper! 

Now, I fully admitted to being a tool hoarder in my last post. Well, after I made a few 6" long pieces of textured copper, I set out to make some components to be finished with more tube rivets. Making the holes large enough for my copper tubing was cumbersome - lots of filing! I turned my head to one of the shelves sitting right next to my bench, and I remembered I had this large hole punch - I have had it for years and NEVER.USED.IT. Shame on me!

The link on the picture takes you directly to the RioGrande site.  But, Amazon.com has it a few dollars cheaper, too!

When I bought this, it was under $30 - I spent more than that on my Swanstrom punch! I remember the day I received it. I was such a newbie with metal - it appeared heavy and clunky. I tried it once and put it right back in the box where it has remained. It comes with 6 different punch and dies for making various hole sizes.  Well, the 3/32 size is nearly perfect for this size copper tubing to be used in tube rivets.

It is very easy to line up the metal with the intended placement of the hole.

The absolute best part of this tool (which is so simple to use) is the release of the metal, once the hole has been punched. I get frustrated when the metal gets "stuck" in my  "regular" hole punch (is this a user error???)  Just lift the top handle - it pulls the metal with it, and then it promptly releases. Three quick swipes of the hole with my round file, and I am ready for the rivet!

So pleased with the results! I made 12 connector tabs from one 6" length x 7/8" width strip of textured copper.

Lapis and Sodalite gems

I added just a slight curve to the tabs for added interest.

These tabs work great for earrings, too.

Sodalite gems

Turquoise gems

Lapis gems

Ancient Roman Glass Beads

I am thinking that a bracelet made with just the connectors would be lovely, too.

Have you discovered any new tools lately???  Please share!

Thanks so much for stopping by today!

Written by Patti Vanderbloemen for Love My Art Jewelry

Creative way to polish metal

Carol Dekle-Foss

When I first started making jewelry, I fell in love with the versatility of the Pro-Polishing pads. These pads were my go to for all my polishing needs. I have now learned many different techniques to finish metal, but still use these guys in many different ways. 

Recently in the studio, I had just given these bracelets a nice liver of sulfur bath.  I then set about the task to remove the oxidation and expose the hammered marks.

I could have easily used the pads by hand, thrown the bracelets in the tumbler, or some other technique, but I had another one of my 'huh, what if  I try this' moments.

Try this technique for yourself. It's fun and super easy!

What you will need:

Pro-Polishing pads

Slotted mandrel

Flex-Shaft or Dremel tool

Please use all safety precautions when using these products. Safety glasses, mask, gloves if you don't want dirty hands, and if you have long hair, tie it back so it doesn't get caught up in the mandrel.

The Technique

This is a great way to utilize those half used or almost used up pads! I usually end up with these all over the studio.

First, cut the 2"x 2" squares into 4 pieces.

Place your slotted mandrel in your flex shaft or Dremel. Now slide the polishing pad into the mandrel. I had to widen mine a bit with a screw driver so it fit snugly.

Some of my latest creations, right out of a liver of sulfur bath and completely dry.

Here, I am removing the oxidation from the back of a sterling silver pendant.

Please disregard my dirty hands and tattered fingernails.

In the below pic, I am polishing a handmade sterling silver link bracelet wrapped around a wooden mandrel. THIS is a very dangerous technique. You have to be very careful and hold the chain real tight so it doesn't come up and smack you in the face or worse, tangle in your finger. Ouch.

With smaller, more delicate chain, I just run it through a larger pad a few times. 

One of the downside with the pads is they tend to tear if caught up on sharp edges, and then get a gummy mess all over your jewelry. So for the earrings, I used a larger pad by hand. It just depends on what you are polishing as to what technique is best. If you want to remove less of the oxidation, all you have to do is use a lighter touch with the mandrel. 

After removing the desired amount of oxidation, I will then take a jewelry polishing cloth to shine up the metal a bit more.

Try this technique yourself! You will be surprised at how fast you can remove the oxidation and polish your jewelry.

Here are the finished pieces.

I recently added these pieces to my website, and extended my holiday sale through to Friday. Use coupon code Holiday to receive a 20% discount!

Happy Holidays everyone!

Rivet-ing Shopping....

by Barbara Bechtel

If you're looking to get started using cold connections and rivets, then you'll need a few essentials to get started! The most wonderful thing about using cold connections in your work is that the tools are very basic and most serve multiple purposes! If you're looking to expand your metal working tool box, then taking up our Cold Connection Boot Camp is a great way to acquire a few new tools that will help you on your metal working journey!

Hammers: Both a riveting hammer and a chasing/ ball peen hammer are great tools for your tool box. While a riveting hammer is just what the name implies, a chasing/ball peen can also be used for riveting with a little practice. Both hammers have many uses outside of rivets however so these should be the first two hammers you splurge on!

Fretz Riveting Hammer from Fusion Beads

Fretz Chasing Hammer from Fusion Beads

Metal tubing/ wire. or manufactured rivets/ tube rivets/ crimps:

You can make both tube rivets and nail head rivets by hand but if you're nervous, you might like to start out with manufactured bits made exclusively for this purpose. Personally, I always cut my own tubing and make balled pins for my rivets, but many use manufactured or precut items for ease of use/speed. Experiment with both for different effects and to see which works for you! Hobby type screws/nut combos as previously mentioned by Karen are also a super fun option with a great finish!

Metal tubing and accessories from Rio Grande

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

eyelet started set from Rio Grande

Center punch/eyelet setter/rivet pliers:

pierce and rivet set from Artbeads.com

A center punch might already be in your tool box if you drill holes, but if not, these can be found very inexpensively at your local hardware (or maybe in your garage already!) A center punch along with a universal eyelet setter will aid if you would like to try your hand tube riveting.

There are also a number of tube riveting pliers on the market (that are used with purchased pre-cut tube rivets) that make connecting a breeze!

Do you have any favorite tools to share for cold connections! We'd love to hear your favorites!

Wire Work: Tools of the Trade and Tips

by Staci L. Smith

Here are some of my go-to tools for wire work, how I use them and where you can get them.  There are some tips thrown in there too, about good wire working- you should always work for quality first, pretty second.  I like that rule, because I usually get to keep my first try at something, since it may have a spot that is not secure enough, or not finished enough on the back, ect ect......

First tool I couldn't live without is my flush cutters. 

http://www.beaducation.com/shop/lindstrom-flush-cutter-pliers-p-81.html

 I use Lindstrom.  I have never tried another brand, and I don't need to, I love these.  They should only be used to cut up to 20 gauge (I think) or you could mar them.  I use them up to about 16 on copper, since it cuts softer.  I have generic hardware store cutters for heavier gauge wires and brass.

Second Tool(s) I could not live without are my round nose pliers and chain nose pliers.

http://www.artbeads.com/tool-108.html?cmp=psg-dsa&gclid=CJ6J4ZWYrLcCFYai4AodARIA7A

http://www.artbeads.com/tool-125.html

I use the cheapies for these, and have for years and years, but it is killing my hands and wrists, so soon, I will have to get something more ergonomic.  However, like I said, these worked fine for me for a looooooong time.  Never broke either.

I use the round nose for loops and swirls, and the chain nose to wrap wire around, and tuck the ends in tightly.  No one wants to wear something with a pokey wire on it.  This leads me to my next can't live without tool..................

My needle files.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-needle-file-set-468.html

Needle files are perfect when you are using a thicker gauge wire, and can't quite tuck the end under.  They are small and fine and can file the end of the wire, so it is not sharp. 

They also make these, which I use when I make my "s" claps, since I cut all the wire at once, then I round the ends, then I shape it.

http://www.amazon.com/Beadalon-208F-001-Wire-Rounder/dp/B0018N4FSG

To work harden my wire, like when making clasps, or larger elements that I don't want coming out of shape, I use a steel bench block and a chasing hammer.

http://www.pjtooljewelry.com/steel-stamping-block.aspx

http://www.pjtooljewelry.com/chasinghammer.aspx

Now, a chasing hammer will flatten your wire while hardening it, so if you don't want that to happen you can use a rawhide mallet.

http://www.pjtooljewelry.com/rawhideleathermallet-2.aspx

When all is said and done, the most important part (to me) is antiquing my work.  I use liver of sulfur and polish cloths for this.

http://www.cooltools.us/Cool-Tools-Liver-of-Sulfur-in-Gel-Form-2oz-p/pol-802.htm

These are my favorite polish pads, hands down, for silver and copper.  They are not cheap, but they work wonders.

http://www.cooltools.us/Shine-Rite-Polishing-Pads-p/pol-151.htm

That is about it.  You can start with much less, and work with much fancier tools as well, but these are the basics.

I linked to many different shops as well, so that you can maybe be introduced to new suppliers.  The web is at your finger tips, so shop around for best prices and shipping deals! 

What wire work tool is your absolute favorite?

Guest Post: Making Your Own Tools by Laura Jane Bouton

I have been wanting to make a new tutorial on a piece of jewelry but I thought I should write one about the tools I have made for myself or had made for me to help me in my metalwork journey. I have only been making jewelry for about a year now and needless to say I don't have all the tools on my wish list, and my list is very long. As we all know tools can be very expensive, and when you are just starting out sometimes it is hard to afford  them. My desire to create is strong, so having the right tools to make my designs is very important and has pushed me to find solutions to help me in my metalwork.

I always like to add some dimension to my pieces, I have your average disc cutter and punches for doming, but I could not limit myself just to circles. I wanted to be able to make any shape I wanted and therefore was dreaming of a hydraulic press. I think we all know how much they cost so it was out of my reach. I was showing a picture of a press to my husband and telling him this is what I want for Christmas, ha ha, he then said I could make one with a car jack. Well needless to say I wanted to make it then and there and here she is.

So, know that if you have a car jack and know how to tig weld, or know someone who does,  you can  make your own manual press for doming your metal into shapes. I  am also very lucky because my husband is mister handy man in person and I also get a lot of help from my co-workers at my day job. I work in a factory that produces motorcycle parts, so I have quite a few welders on hand who can help me in these projects. I guess you can say that I make motorcycle parts by day and jewelry by night.

My one recommendation is to make sure that when you drill the four corner holes on the three steel slates that they are 100% lined up or it will not dome your pieces evenly. The columns are welded to the bottom and top bases, where as the middle block slides up and down on the four columns when cranking the car jack. In the picture above you can also see that there are loops welded to the corners of the top base and the middle block. Attached to these loops are spring coils that help guide the middle block up and down while using the press. Naturally the press is bolted to my work bench.

You can also make your own dies out of  cast acrylic or various objects. You can cut out any shape with your jewelry saw but  you need to use a spiral blade on your saw.

Here I cut out of the acrylic piece an oval shape. I also cut the same shape out on a piece of  brass metal sheet. After Taping the two pieces together I then sanded the inside edges of the oval cut out to make sure that they matched. The brass piece helps make your domed piece comes out more defined after pressing.
Don't forget to anneal you piece of metal, here I annealed a piece of copper.

You will also need some pieces of rubber too. When the press comes down it helps push the metal through the oval shape. I cut up some pieces of a rubber hot pad from my kitchen, it works just great!
Then put your metal piece on you acrylic die and the rubber on top as shown in the photo to the left.








I also tape everything together some what like a "sandwich" so things don't move around when you put it in the press.

Put everything in the press, obviously in between the bottom base and middle block. I also put a piece of green plexiglass on top of my "sandwich" which helps push the rubber and then forces the metal to push through the die. Eventually it will get harder to crank the handle, and the middle block can no longer move downward, that is usually a sign that the piece is domed.

Here is the piece after doming in the manual press. Now the possibilities here are endless, you could cut the piece out, enamel it and set it in a bezel or leave a small edge around the shape and cold connect it to a backing. My favorite is always making hollow forms, you could make another oval piece and solder the two together.




Here I used this steel die to dome out my sun pin. Once again my work came in handy, this piece is assembled to the exhaust pipe of a motorcycle. I used it also to dome out the sterling silver cover on the pin.

Here I have a smaller cast acrylic die that I used to make these small oval pieces. This is a project I am working on now. The oval piece will be cold connected with a wire rivet to the tear drop shaped backing. I have put it on hold because I can't seem to decide on what enamel color I would like, so I am still in the experimental  fase which is always so much fun!.







With this other piece from work I made these copper earrings. I form folded and textured them first and then I domed them in the press. This is  one of the good things about using the press, you don't loose your texture like you would with the punches.

With this piece, I cut out a triangle shape and made the domed part of this pendant.








Here I cut out the heart always using  a piece of cast acrylic and domed it in the press just like I describe above.






Now I realize that not everyone has a job like mine and all that is available there, so if you can't make a manual press know that you can get the same result with your bench vise. Follow the procedure I described above, make your "sandwich" (tape together your die, annealed metal, rubber, plexiglass ) and put everything in your vise. Even in one of my favorite metal smith books, "The Complete Metal smith" by Tim McCreight, he explains in detail how you can make your own dies and use your vise. If you don't have the book I highly recommend it, it has helped me many of times.

sandwich

vise

For the domed heart on the left I used the press, and with the domed heart on the right I used my vise. The heart made with the press is slightly higher than the one with the vise but I think they bother came out nicely. Before I made my manual press, I would use this vise which belongs  to my father-in-law and it is outside near the chicken coop.  I would have to go out there every time to dome my pieces, yes the desire to make jewelry is strong!!


As I mentioned before  I love to add dimension to my pieces, but I also love to create texture. I usually  use liver of sulfur on my pieces to oxidize them, I love how it brings out the texture. There are texture hammers available at jewelry supply stores but they can be expensive. Luckily both my husband and I are tool junkies and I had a few extra hammers that I could play with.

I used my disc cutter on my dremel to cut out a criss cross design on the square flat end of this hammer.

Here are some pieces I made using that hammer. I textured the side of the bezel on the ring and the side of the hollow form pendant.








Here, I still used my disc cutter to cut lines in the smaller end of the hammer. For the piece of copper on the right I did random strikes. With the piece of copper on the left I held the head of hammer in my hand like you do with stamping, and used another hammer to strike with. This way the texture comes out more uniformed.

Another one of my favorites is the screw driver. Those little squares are quite nice. I will admit that I did buy a texture hammer once,  however I have never used it. I like to use things I can find in my surroundings, I feel the final result is more organic which I prefer.








My final little invention is something I made to help me with enameling. I do not have a kiln and I don't know how to make one, at least not yet. Therefore I torch enamel and I needed some kind of grid to put my pieces on so I could torch from underneath, and this is the contraption I came up with.........

I drilled holes in the bricks to hold the two steel rods. Steel wire was also welded to some small steel rings which can slide onto the rods.This way I can adjust the space between the wire according to the size of the piece I am working on.

Here is a close up of how the wire is welded to the rings. If you can't tig weld, you can use some binding wire which is thinner and wrap each end around the rods. That was my previous set up before I moved on to this one. However I found with the micro torch, the thinner wire held up, but with my big girl torch the thinner wire would melt. This little invention can easily be set up and removed when you are not using it.

Torching enamel.........

Some more fun with enameling, here are some of the domed hearts I enameled on my grid. I did some sgraffito with the white heart and over torched it  in hopes of getting  "broken heart" look. Now though I have the urge to make another heart and solder the two halves together for a hollow form. The desire to create just never ends.........

Hopefully my little tutorial will help someone out there just getting started on their metal smith journey. I know how frustrating it can be sometimes when you want to create something and you don't have the right tools.  I am a self taught jewelry maker and I have learned such a great deal from online tutorials and books that are available out there in this world. I guess it is my way a giving back, and saying thanks to all those fabulous artist out there who so generously shared their knowledge.

Rusty and Lula

My two favorite studio friends when I am hammering, bending, torching metal into something fun to wear!!

You can find me here:

http://www.etsy.com/shop/LjBjewelry
http://www.facebook.com/LjBjewelry
http://laurajanebouton.blogspot.it/