Handmade Beads

by Patti Vanderbloemen

Boy...it has been quite some time since I have blogged here! It feels good to be back! :)

Personally, I have an affinity towards handmade beads - all mediums. I don't know about you, but I cannot count the number of "subscribed lists" I have signed up for to arrive in my email inbox, but I do at least glance at each and every "blog type" email that pops up in my mailbox feed -- always on the lookout for inspiration.. One of my favorite's is the Interweave Blog.

A couple of weeks ago, Tammy Jones had a post related to 1-hour rings.  In this post was a quick, down and dirty tutorial to make a sterling silver ring that resembled bamboo (if interested, here is the link to that blog post). The tutorial (by artist Elizabeth Ann Tokoly) starts with a sterling silver ring already soldered and formed. After reading through the steps involved, I felt a thick gauge wire would work best - so I grabbed 6 gauge.

I will say, the making of this ring took me 1 hour and 45 minutes - but that included forming the ring from such heavy stock - I had to anneal the metal several times just to get it formed for soldering. And then anneal several more times AFTER the soldering to get it round and to the correct size (why didn't I just grab 8 gauge?) :) Also, it is a bit cumbersome to saw the score lines around the ring - but it can be done.

 Anyway, it is a COOL ring, which I have gifted to a friend. (Forgive the picture quality - I just took a quick picture for reference purposes only).

This technique would be AWESOME for a bangle - which I will try in the future. In the meantime, I thought I would try making a little bead using this technique. For this bead, I grabbed some thick-walled sterling tubing.

I roughly measured the bead length to 3/4".

Cut the tubing to size using my tube cutting jig and jeweler's saw.

I made two little "end caps" for the bead by using my disc cutter and some scrap silver sheet - it's 18 gauge sheet, so it is thick.

I used medium silver solder paste to attach the first end cap to the tube - this is my set up.

After pickling - you can see that the excess overhang of the disc needs filing.

I used my ring clamp to stabilize the bead against my bench pin while I quickly filed away the excess silver.

The picture below is a bit blurry, but I filed the disc / end cap to be flush with the tubing.

Never EVER solder a hollow bead without first making a hole to allow steam to escape when soldering. Though I have not done it myself, I have read where nasty accidents can happen if the escape hole is not in place before closing up this hollow form. I simply put my bead in my vice and drilled a hole.

Second disc/end cap solder set up.

Pickled, then filed the second end cap / disc flush to the tubing/bead, and drilled the final hole.

Really hard to see in this picture, but I scored two parallel lines close to the ends of each bead, using my jeweler's saw - again using my ring clamp to hold the bead while sawing.

Now - this next step is the reason I used thick walled tubing. I used my tiny half round file to make four slight indentations around the middle of the bead.

I cleaned up the the bead with a pumice wheel on my flex shaft. (These are the pumice wheels I use).

Patina added (I use Midas Black Max - link here), buffed with steel wool, and tumbled. Liver of Sulfur works just as well, but Black Max is quicker and does not stink.  :) Always a plus!

One more tiny tip  (and of course, I forgot to take a picture). Before you tumble the bead, add the bead to a piece of wire (copper - it's cheap) and loop the ends. This will keep the shards of shot from getting stuck inside the bead while tumbling (this I have done...takes forever to release that shot!)

Now, this is not a perfect bead, but I rather like the organic look to this shape - would look great as a single bead on a bracelet, two beads for earrings, or even an entire chain if you have lots of time on your hands to create! Total time to make this bead for me (not including tumbling) was about 30 minutes.  So, while this technique is a bit time consuming, it is handmade and definitely not made in China! 

Anyway, the making of this bead was the bit of inspiration I need to kick off this brand new year. I wish you all a very Happy New Year!

Thanks for stopping by!

Sterling Silver Solder Filled Wire??

by Patti Vanderbloemen

While trolling the Rio Grande website one evening, I found a "new-to-me product" (no idea how long Rio has had this in stock, but I had never seen it):  Sterling Silver Solder Filled Wire (link here).  I tend to solder my jump rings when attaching a clasp, and I like to make my own chain...when I can. This name says it all - solder filled. So in theory, just make a jump ring, flux, fire...boom - closed jump ring.

Now I have tried fusing fine silver wire in the past for jump rings and chain, and for every 6 rings I would attempt to fuse, 3 would burn up in my way-too-hot flame, or I would not pull the flame away quick enough. Epic fail. I do know that practice makes perfect, but,I thought I would give this wire a try. Cost wise, the SS Solder Filled wire (as of this writing) is about $2.10 more per troy ounce than .925 Sterling Silver round wire.  I ended up purchasing 1 troy ounce of 18 gauge.

This is the description of the wire from Rio's website:

Solder-filled silver wire is a tri-metal wire: a solder core surrounded by a copper shell and a fine silver outer layer (solder core: 6%; copper and fine silver shell: 94%). The overall composition is sterling, but the fine silver outer layer provides a better finish and luster than sterling silver. The core eliminates the need for additional solder, simplifying production. This wire is ideal for making chains and jump rings. Simply flux and use. 

I not only wanted to test the ease of use, but also the strength. So, I chose an "ancient" chain link that really puts the links through the wringer. This is not really a tutorial for making the links, but rather I wanted to illustrate the steps I used to check the strength of this wire. The 18 gauge SS Solder Filled Wire is softer than .925 Sterling Silver wire, has a bright and shiny fine silver finish, and is very nice to work with.

This is the chain link I made and the design for this link is typically made from 20 gauge - but hey - I had 18 gauge!

I used one of my dapping punches that was approximately 1/2" wide to form a coil for my rings.

As everyone knows, anytime a join has to be soldered, it must be a PERFECT join. This is especially true for using this wire (and fusing fine silver jump rings, as well). After sawing out the rings, I set them up assembly-line style on my charcoal block, sprayed with Pripps flux, and proceeded to move the flame slowly around each ring. I will say - MUCH EASIER to get the solder to flow with this wire than to fuse fine silver wire.

Because the outer layer of the wire is fine silver, there was no fire scale (no pickle/clean up required) - and that is a huge PLUS.

Strength Test Number 1: To begin forming the links, place the jump ring near the bottom of round nose pliers and pull gently to make an oval shape.

In the picture above, the solder join is inside that little yellow circle. This area will receive the most stress from shaping the round link into an oval, thus a perfect test for the strength of this wire. 

Not every jump ring I made was perfect....which is why I chose this chain to test the strength of the wire.  Seriously - must have a perfect join before soldering!

Once you have formed the oval shape, grab the oval in the center and pinch with the round nose pliers to make a "bow tie" shape.

Turn the link around over the round nose pliers and bend it closed.

No...it's not perfect in my picture...I tweaked the shape a bit after wards!

Once you have your links formed, feed one looped end of one link through both looped ends of another ring, and rotate the links until they are "nestled".

Strength Test 2: I looped a small piece of copper wire to one end of my chain to act as a pulley and proceeded to pull the chain through successive holes in my draw plate. 

I ended up pulling the chain through 5 holes in the draw plate - from larger hole to smaller hole - which not only tested the strength of the links, but it really fine tuned each link so that they were the same size.

I have made this chain several times over the past couple of years, using 20 Gauge Sterling Silver wire. But, I wanted to make a comparison to the Solder Filled wire, so I made a few similar links using 18 Gauge Sterling Silver wire.

After forming my jump rings around the same mandrel, I took a teeny tiny piece of hard solder (for color matching purposes, there is more silver content in hard solder so I typically grab that box first).

Now, I forgot to take a picture but trust me - each link required a soak in pickle and clean up - something I DID NOT have to do with the SS Solder Filled Wire. Also, there is a reason this chain should be made with 20 gauge wire if using Sterling. The sterling silver - even though dead soft and heated (annealed) becomes very hard very fast.  

The image below shows the chain made with 18 gauge SS Soldered filled wire on the top (notice that beautiful shine) and 18 gauge sterling silver on the bottom.  The chain made with the 18 gauge SS Solder Filled wire is much more fluid.

Top Chain - made with 18 Gauge SS Solder Filled Wire
Bottom Chain - made with 18 Gauge .925 Sterling Silver Wire 

I ended up making myself a little bracelet with the completed Solder Filled Chain. I oxidized the chain first, tumbled, then I simply wired a pretty Silver-Flanked Orange bead from Tibet as my focal. I also added a little extender chain, made from jump rings - soldered closed - so that this bracelet is adjustable. 

I may actually keep this bracelet for myself, as I really do like the links on this chain.

I will definitely use this solder filled wire again - especially when I need a secure closure, such as a soldered jump ring for clasps, etc.

So tell me - have you experimented with any new materials lately? If so - please share, as I am always on the lookout!

Thanks so much for joining me today - have a great week!

Hardware Store Finds

by Patti Vanderbloemen

Right about this time last year, Karen shared a great post/tutorial on using copper tubing in jewelry (here is the link). I vividly remember reading the post and dashing out the door to Home Depot to pick up some tubing of my own. While sitting at my bench the other day, I turned my head and realized I still had quite a bit of tubing left over...begging to be used in something new.

So, I set out to make some Big Hole Beads. Many artists use these beads with leather and thick cording, but I had other ideas. Here is a quick synopsis via photos of how I made the beads.

I used 1/4" copper tubing, found at Home Depot.

I wanted to try dapping the ends of the tubing, so I did not want the beads to be too big (long).  I used my $7.00 tube cutter, also from Home Depot, to cut the tubing to length.

This "bead" is about 3/8" long. Now, when a tube cutter is used, the cut portion is not perfectly flat.

So, a couple of swipes with my flat file was in order.

Anneal the bead until red hot. I was going to attempt to add texture to the bead AND dap the ends, so I knew that I would have to anneal the metal several times. I let the red-hot copper air-cool instead of immediately quenching in water. Multiple annealing and quenching can make the metal brittle. Don't ask me how I know this....

To add texture, I slipped the bead on a thin center punch that I have sitting on my bench. A regular old nail would work, as well, Anything round and metal will work (my dapping punches were too thick). By slipping the bead onto a round metal "mandrel", it helps it maintain its round shape when adding texture. I just used the edge of my riveting hammer for this example.

If the bead becomes out of round from texturing, just anneal, air-cool, and slip it back on your round mandrel of choice. I had my plastic hammer ready - but just putting the softened/annealed bead on the mandrel and squeezing it down put the bead back in the round. A nail would have been perfect here, as my center punch is tapered, so I had to keep flipping the bead  - just like when forming a ring on a ring mandrel.

To form a little anticlastic curve on either end of the bead, I simply found a dapping punch approximately the same size as the hole in the bead and gave it a few GENTLE whacks on my bench block (turn the bead often and be gentle with the hammer)!

I rather like this organic shape - slightly wonky but still round. Kinda rustic.

My intent is to use the Large Hole Beads on a bangle, as seen below (not yet polished or antiqued).

There are endless possibilities for adorning these little beads. The bead below was not dapped/ curved.  Instead, I very carefully melted some silver scrap into a granule, flattened it with my hammer, sweat soldered a tiny pallet of solder, let it cool, FLATTEN AGAIN with the hammer, and soldered it to the bead.

The "first" bead I made - simply textured and dapped the ends.

I had some silver tubing on hand as well.

For the bead below, I dapped (no texture) the copper bead, soldered (I used paste solder here) just the end of a length of  flattened 22 gauge sterling wire, cooled, "messy wrapped" around the bead, drew a ball on the end of the wire in my flame, and soldered the end down to the rest of the "messy" wrap.

If you use these beads for bangles, remember to slip the bead onto the bangle before you solder the bangle closed.  :)

I actually drool when I mix my metals - love the look!

Ta Da!

Only 45 more feet of copper tubing left to use up!  :) :) 

I hope you found this inspiring! Thanks for stopping by!

xo

Patti