Hollow Metal Beads - A Tutorial and a Giveaway!

by Patti Vanderbloemen for Love My Art Jewelry Blogspot

Today, I thought I would share my technique for making hollow metal beads. I have seen tutorials for making these before, but I am including a couple of tips that help me.  In the past, I have made these in both sterling silver and copper - today's images illustrate sterling.

(As always, please be safe and wear the appropriate eye protection and a mask, as well).

The first step is to texture your metal. I like to use 20 gauge sheet.  Once the sheet is cut into discs, the metal will then be dapped.  As you hammer while dapping, the metal spreads, thus the texture will not be quite as deep in the metal as when you began.  So, I start with a heavier gauge metal and texture deeply - the example below illustrates a texture I made using the flat edge of my riveting hammer.  

The size of the beads is totally up to the maker. In the example, I am using a fairly small punch and the discs measure 9.5mm. I always place a piece of scrap metal - same gauge as my work- opposite from the hole I am cutting.  This extra step should make my disc cutter last longer.

Once all the discs have been cut, I then anneal the metal, quench in water, and pickle.

The edges from the disc cutter can be abrasive. I take a second and run a sanding pad around the edges to smooth out the roughness. These pads last a long time, and I use them daily (link here).  

When doming each disc, I use my brass hammer and usually dome 3 sizes down, starting with the largest dapping depression, down to the smallest size.  It is a personal preference how "puffy" a shape you want for your final hollow bead.

I then take my mini round needle file and make a slight impression on only 1 of the 2 discs.  I have 2 reasons for doing this: 1) I use silver solder paste, and this impression/hole provides an escape for the pressurized air when soldering; and, 2) it also makes drilling the hole in the final bead slightly easier.

This is one of my soldering stations.  I have mentioned in the past that I only use a butane torch (this one).  But, I set my fire brick (or an additional hard charcoal block) on it's side.  I then set my item to be soldered on the charcoal block - right next to the fire brick.  The heat generated from my torch bounces off the fire brick back to the item being soldered. This setup provides me with enough heat to solder 6 gauge wire with a butane torch (it takes a while, but it can be done)!

I add silver solder paste to the inside one of the domed discs. Remember - no flux is required with paste and Yes - using solder paste is messy! 

I add the second domed disc, and set it on the charcoal block next to the fire brick.  The solder paste binder will burn away (evidenced by the flame you will get when you hit this with the torch)!  When applying the heat with the torch, fan the area around the bead with the flame first, just to heat it up, then aim the flame at the bead. Watch carefully while torching - you will see a very thin line of silver - that's the key to knowing that the solder has flowed. It does not take long with the torch.  Wait about 20 seconds, quench in water, then pickle.

Drilling the holes is the most challenging part of this process.  Remember the impression I made on one side of the disc? Well, I put the bead in my ring clamp (link here) for support (a vice would probably work here also .... but that would require me to move across the room to my vice) and I swipe the same round needle file over the bead to create a rounded-flat spot (I know...my wording here is bad)!  This flat spot is where I will drill the first hole. 

With my left hand, I brace the ring clamp against my bench pin for support and drill with my flex shaft in my right hand. I will admit - that drill bit will want to bounce.  But, by bracing the ring holder in my bench pin, and my right hand with the flex shaft braced against my bench, it is do-able, I promise!

This is 20 gauge sheet - slightly on the heavy side - so the drilling will take a bit to get through the metal. I am HUGE proponent of lubricating my drill bits - I use this.  

Once the hole is drilled, I mark the other side with a sharpie (I just eyeball this mark) and repeat the steps above for drilling the second hole.

Next comes finish - and this is simply how I finish my beads. I prefer to smooth the solder seam as much as possible.  The image below (click to zoom) are the silicone and fiber discs that I use the most (all available from Rio Grande). The pumice disc (the green discs, bottom left of the picture) are truly the most used discs for this purpose.  The pumice can even be used around gemstones when cleaning up bezels - it is safe and will not scratch!  I simply place the bead back in the ring clamp and go through a series of buffing, starting with the pumice, and usually ending with the green 3M Bristle Disc silicon wheel (the grit is slight - only 1 micron). 

Ready for the tumbler!

After tumbling (no patina, yet)!

These beads look so beautiful with patina added.  Well, my mother has been begging for some earrings made with these beads - sans patina. She also prefers post earrings, so, she was quite happy to receive these!

Just two beads add a nice design element to a bracelet, I think.

Lampwork by Susan Kennedy of Sue Beads

The hollow beads below are 3/4" round.

Lampwork by Judith Billig)

The next two images feature 3 beads from the batch above - with patina - and gorgeous artisan lampwork work nuggets by GlassBeadArt.

The Giveaway

Okay - you have lasted this long...want to win these 2 hollow beads? I have already added the patina, buffed and tumbled.

Just leave a comment on this blog post - please make sure to leave your email address so that I can get in touch with the winner!  Winner will be announced by my next posting!

Thanks for joining us today - go make something wonderful!

xo

Patti