Latest porcelain creations..

Carol Dekle-Foss

Hi Everyone! I hope you have had a chance to enjoy some wonderful summer activities! I have stayed home most of the time, which isn't like me. This time of year, I'm usually camping, visiting the beach, or hiking in our amazing Sierra Foothills. After the accident though, I felt like I had lost three months so I have been really focused on catching up and working on new designs. 

 Lately, I've been influenced by affirmations and positive quotes, so I've been incorporating some of my favorites into a new line. Below are a few I've made so far. 

My first batch of "it is well with my soul." I just love this quote. I made them into pendants so they can be worn close to the heart. They need a different glaze for sure, one that highlights the font better.  I changed the design to include a cute border.

These pendants are in their greenware state, I'm so excited to see them glazed! I plan on making more designs like this. If there is an affirmation or quote that you think would be a great addition, please let me know!

Latest designs fresh out of the kiln...

A new petal shape.

More yummy cherry blossoms.

Mandala, lotus and swirl charms and pendants.

First try at the "just breathe" quote. 

A large flourish pendant.

These beads are supposed to be carved with lotus petals. Ugh...not quite as I had envisioned!

Also, I've been working on some porcelain cone ring holders. I like the swirl leaf base and the shape is good, but I wasn't going for little brown turds. Lol! I think spaced in my booth they won't look like turds in a toilet. Hahaha! I'm working on the glaze color. Any suggestions? 

Alright ya'll, give it up for the husband!

Ronnie's beads...

and his very first pendant!!! Isn't it adorable?? It's so much fun watching him play with clay.

All of the above will be listed by the end of this week to our Etsy store here. Minus the turds. Haha! 

Thank you for reading. I hope your were inspired to create!

DIY clay cutter tutorial-REVAMPED

Carol Dekle-Foss

Last year I did a tutorial on how to make your own clay cutters here. After working with them for awhile, I realized I needed to make a few changes. I thought I would share how I made a better clay cutter that will not come unglued, doesn't lose its shape and has a cool handle!

(greenware porcelain pendants)

What you will need:

24 gauge sheet metal (Stronger than 28 gauge. Also, I used brass instead of copper)

File 

Thread

Metal scoring tool (I used a divider)

Sharpie

Ruler

Metal shears

Cratex knife edge wheel

400 grit sandpaper
Split mandrel

Pliers

Shape pattern
Torch
Solder
Handy flux
soldering pick
Mandrels

The first few steps are the same as the original tutorial, but with a few updates.

STEP ONE

Measure the length of your stamp with a string. Cut the string about 1/4" to 1/2" longer to allow overlap of the metal.

STEP TWO

Mark the length with a sharpie. I made my cutter deeper this time, about 3/8".

If you have a straight edge on your metal, you can use a divider to run along the edge to score your metal. 

If not, you will have to measure and mark the depth and use a ruler as a guide for scoring your metal.

STEP THREE

Cut your metal with metal shears, or a throatless sheer, and then hammer to flatten. I would anneal your metal after hammering if you have an intricate cutter design.

             

                                                                                                                                      STEP FOUR

This step requires a bit of finesse to get the shape just right. 

Using different mandrels and pliers, shape your design.

I used flat-round nose pliers. My new favorite tool!

Keep forming until you have the right shape.

Flat nose pliers work great for sharp corners.

STEP FIVE
 The previous cutters came undone a few times, and I had to reglue. Forget that, let's solder this one instead! I used my go to medium solder, but you can use easy or hard if you like.

Oops, fail. Don't be like me and cut your metal shorter so there is not much to solder, about 1/4". I just resoldered and closed the gap. 

I then formed a piece of metal and soldered on a little handle! This will make it soo much easier to lift after stamping.

Perfect! Now time to clean up all sharp edges.

STEP SIX

The next step is important. File the inside edge where the metal comes together so there is no line when stamping the clay.

 If you like, you can use an abrasive wheel to remove firescale and soften the edges of the handle. I used a knife edge cratex wheel. Also, if your clay cutter doesn't sit flush, run it in a figure eight motion over sandpaper, turning every once in awhile so it sands evenly.

With a split mandrel and 400 grit sandpaper, I cleaned up file marks and created a satin finish over the whole cutter.

 This cutter is much more sturdy and can withstand my abuse! Most importantly, every piece I stamp will have a uniform shape.

I use olive oil as a release agent. It works okay, but if you use something better and would like to share, please let me know in the comments!

Thank you for reading,
Carol Dekle-Foss
Terra Rustica Design

Recycling Ceramic Clay

Delightfully I have a few custom orders I am working on with this Chocolate Stoneware Clay.

Unfortunately, the clay I have has been lurking in the studio for quite some time (at least 9 years) and is a bit hard. 

So I have to reclaim or recycle it.

When you are sitting there with a 25 block of hard, stiff full of attitude clay, you have two choices:

1. If it is still a bit wet, you can break it into small bits and spritz it with water, wrapped tightly with plastic until it reaches a workable stage. This may take a few days of diligent spritzing.

2. Let the ceramic clay dry to a bone dry stage, then immerse it in water.

After the clay particles have become wet, the excess water is drained off, then the remaining clay is laid out - usually on plaster slabs (pottery plaster #1, not the stuff you get at a craft store), and the excess water is removed through the plaster and the air (sunshine also helps this process if you are outdoors). 

Once the clay has dried enough, it is peeled off the slab, then is ready for working or storage again.

My son (4.5 years old) was in the studio with me as I was wetting the dry scraps, and he loved putting his hands into the bowl and breaking he pieces under water. 

Then he got to smack the plaster slab with his wet hand before washing it...

I loved watching him experience this for the first time. Pure delight!

It's always good to get this recycling done so that one can jump into creativity as the time and muse permit and have the necessary clay ready to go.

I decided to make beads!

Glazing will happen sometime this next week...

A few safety notes when working with Earth Clay:

1. Do not breathe dry dust particles - dry earth clay contains silica (which can be inhaled into your lungs, but will not come out). Work "wet" as much as possible. Do not make dust.

2. Many people have a skin allergic reaction to raw Red Iron Oxide. Earth clays that are red or brown in color usually have a high percentage of R.I.O. in it. Gloves may be necessary.

3. Wear dust, gloves and safety eye gear when using Pottery Plaster #1.

4. Do not put clay particles or plaster down a sink drain! Work in buckets or bowls and dispose of excess in a smart way.

All of this for Wood-Fired Beads?

MaryAnn Carroll

I must say that I am pretty lucky to be able to include beads in regular wood-firings. It is definitely a rare happening, since, who would build a 34 cubic foot kiln to fire beads in? My husband, of course. I think he does this just to keep my happy! Yes, I am SURE he does this to keep me happy!!

The truth is that there is quite a process that goes into wood-firing. The first part of the process is the same for all ceramic artists who use a wheel and fire with methods such as electric or gas. You start off with clay...... and a wheel....

Then, a few steps follow.... like skill, knowledge, artistry, practice, more practice and more practice, until you get it just right. Nothing can replace the time to perfect an art like practice.

This is Bill at a recent "throwing" event near our home.

Once the piece is thrown, it is left to dry until leather hard. At this time, the thrown piece gets trimmed.... Well, MANY pieces get trimmed. To fill his wood-fire kiln, it takes about 300-350 pieces depending on the size of the pieces.

A leather hard bowl that has been trimmed.

Now, it takes about a week or two for the piece to dry completely. At this point, they go into his electric kiln to be bisque fired. A bisque firing basically prepares a piece so that it can be handled without breaking during the glaze process.

This is one shelf prepared for a bisque firing inside of the electric kiln. Typically, 4-5 shelves similar to this are stacked.

A grouping ready to be removed for glazing.

 After they are bisque fired, it's time for the glazing....

As you see, he has a little of the female appeal going as strongly encouraged by me....

This group shows the wadding on the bottom of some pieces. I will explain that more when I post Part II of the process.

Look at the picture below. Do you see where the arrow is pointing? That is one small rack of my beads. You might be able to see why wood-fired beads are rare. These kilns are not built for beads and most who go through the labor of building a wood-fire kiln are doing so for the love of this form of pottery making, as well as for larger works of art.

Bill is preparing for another firing now. I will keep you posted for the 2nd half of the process. It's even more involved that the first half. You can learn a little more in advance by visiting his website and/or his shop.

Here are some beads from some past firings.

 

 

Thanks so much for reading and for supporting artists who create handmade with handmade.

MaryAnn