Dyeing Silks for Custom Colors and Patterns

by Barbara Bechtel


Earlier this year, I took a eucalyptus dying class with Kim Mailhot at my favorite local studio, Art More Place. It turns out, that the green eucalyptus we see in floral arrangements and the favorite food of koala bears, when heated and steamed in dye bath turns a beautiful rusty color.

Here, you can see the beautiful rusty leaves and the impressions they left on the silk bags.

Another useful technique that Kim shared with us is that sari silk and other dyed silks can often used to add pops of color as well. When heated in a boiling steam bath, the dye transfers away leaving a beautiful watercolor effect to the formerly solid silks!

See those little lines? Those are made using tiny threads pulled from sari silk! On the left, you can see some faint lime green lines left from a piece of dyed green silk from Marsha Neal Studio.

I can see so many possibilities with this to customizing and dying your own silks for use, can't you?

Here are just a few of the silks that I dyed in my class!

In the same vein, recently I saw this tutorial floating around Pinterest and Facebook for dyeing easter eggs with old silk ties and that really got the wheels turning in my head because it essentially follows the same method that I learned with the sari silks!

These follow a similar approach! I can't wait to try this method with a silk to silk dye transfer!

Have you ever tried to dye your own fibers for your jewelry? I'd love to hear about your experience in the comments below!

New Work and Keeping It Simple...

by Barbara Bechtel


I've had sort of a hard time getting back to jewelry making after 2014's holiday shows. Then for me, procrastination sets in, along with loss of momentum, and it becomes even HARDER to start again. When I work, I tend to get hyper-focused on details, often to the detriment of the big picture. I'll fuss and fuss over little things without looking at the big picture, either in the piece or the whole big picture of jewelry.

In some ways, I enjoy this process. In example, it's led me into the foray of just making components, but I found then I make tons of finished components and NO JEWELRY!

In the last month, I set out to get my jewelry mojo back. For me, this often takes several days sort of sorting things around, playing with elements, and making (and destroying) work....you know, noodling over a piece like I mentioned above only to spend hours on it and find I HATE IT when I'm finished.

This time around, I started out in the same old way, and became disgusted with myself. So my mental dialogue went something like this:

"You're thinking too hard."

"Think outside the box."

"Work SMARTER, not HARDER."

.......wait, that's the problem.......

"You're thinking OUTSIDE the box. You just need to make some jewelry. It's not that hard.....Keep it simple!"

Ahhhhhh, SIMPLE! That was just the kick in the pants I needed to get myself back into gear. The outside-the-box-thing can come later....I just needed to jump the first hurdle.

I started out with going through my stash of vintage findings. I love to peruse estate sales, craigslist, eBay, and flea markets for old components and vintage stampings.

I started out making some bracelet focals from some vintage brass post earrings.

Next, I had these awesome thunderbird stampings that had a bezel tray. They needed cleaning and patina as well as some holes.

Then I filled the bezels with polymer clay and stamped some words. (y'all know I'm a word girl!)

Here you can see the first two finished ones. I wanted to leave a few to fill after I finished a couple to see how the design would work out and maybe get inspired by some different color choices later.

Here's a shot of some of the focals I finished.

And here's a shot of some of the simple finished bracelets. These are just basic simple bracelets. I wanted to have a mixed metal look to the more squarish ones on the top and bottom and so I took bits of leftover matching (but different colored chain) and alternated the links.

You can see that the approach in designing each of the elements is quite simple and used lots of repeating elements, but by changing my mindset and going with simple designs, I was able to cross that first hurdle!

Regaining your momentum....

by Barbara Bechtel

Some freehand stitching I've been working on in 2015

Are you already on a roll in 2015? Are you off and running and attacking the new year? If you are, GOOD FOR YOU! But perhaps you're already stuck.....Sometimes even though we have the best of intentions of diving into the new year with a new zest and zeal, you go to your studio or your worktable and you feel....

Stuck.

Overwhelmed.

Underwhelmed.

Lost.

Lacking.

If that's you, DON'T WORRY! You're not alone! Sometimes the holidays or any big event for that matter can leave you feeling less than motivated creatively. My own experience is that much of that feeling can be attributed the the break in momentum. All of the build up to the holidays or a big show can leave you feeling depleted and zapped. For me, it's a big factor in my creativity. Although it continues to be a struggle for me, as I continue on my creative path, I thought I would share my tips today for finding your groove again and regaining your creative momentum:

Barbara's Tips for getting UNSTUCK:

NUMBER 1 (AND THE MOST IMPORTANT):
Be kind to yourself. You are not a machine. While you may have just had a holiday "vacation", many times we need a creative vacation. If you're recouping after a big show, close that studio door for a couple days, weeks, months, if you need to. Focus on other aspects of your life for a bit. As the old adage goes, art imitates life, and sometimes when you get into a routine with the rest of your life, you'll feel that pull again on your creativity.

2) Take a class or do something different creatively. You're a creative being but that doesn't mean you have to focus solely on one thing. Especially if your main focus brings in income, your creativity can often be zapped by that pressure to make money. Find a class that teaches a skill you've been wanting to add to your repertoire or take up another creative hobby while your brain recuperates. Cooking, knitting, painting or drawing, whatever!....Free yourself to use your creativity in other ways besides the one where you feel stuck.

3) Find local connections. If you have creative friends nearby, get together for a day of fun. It can be as structured as you wish (everyone works on the same project) or maybe everyone just brings their own project to work on. Sometimes just talking to other creative friends about what they are working on and chatting together over a cup of coffee can really help. No creative friends nearby? Get on the ol' interwebs and have a google hangout or start a Facebook group where you can commune with like minded creatives!

4) Revisit an old or unfinished project. NONE of us have any of those, right? ;) Sometimes those old and unfinished projects haunt our creativity and weigh us down. Dig one out and FINISH it. It doesn't need to end up like the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, but sometimes the act of getting in there and finishing something you started can be very liberating.

5) Clean/ Organize/ Rearrange your workspace. Shake it up. Get rid of old stuff, rearrange and clear the space. Find some old supplies you forgot about. Commit to using them or parting with them.

6) Embrace the mundane tasks of creativity. Make clasps, make headpins, recycle that old metal or clay, polish your tools, clean the pickle pot. Sometimes in the throes of creativity, we put those things off, but just like doing the laundry, mowing the lawn, and cleaning the toilet, it still needs done, and there is always a sense of accomplishment afterwards.

What are YOUR favorite tips for getting unstuck? I'd love for you to share them in the comments!

Resetting in 2015

Happy New Year! Now that the holidays are officially over and the dust is starting to settle, I'd like to get reacquainted with you all!

Many people don't like to make resolutions or goals, but I always find it a good to reset. Whether you have concrete goals or just like to choose a word to focus on....or simply have a list of things you'd like to accomplish, I hope this year brings fruition to your heart's desires.

Over my show season this past holiday, I decided that one of my goals in the new year would be to make more videos and take more pictures of my process. My work tends to focus on using a lot of second hand or seemingly worthless objects and elevating them in my jewelry.

A good example of this is my penny charms. I really wanted a way that those who follow me could see a part of the process so that they could relate it to what they are seeing in person.

I made this simple time lapse video to showcase the first part of the process. I'm still learning about producing videos like this but I hope to keep refining my skills and making more videos from the studio.



How Barbara creates a unique charm from a real copper penny. from Barbara Bechtel on Vimeo.

Summer studio......

Every year, I leave my comfy Florida tiny little extra bedroom air-conditioned studio to venture to North Carolina for 3-4 months....When I tell people this, the common response is, "oh, that must be nice." It is very nice that we both are self employed from the home. However, most people wouldn't live how we live when we're here.

We are very sparse people....so, when we come to North Carolina....we are basically gypsy campers.....We have all the conveniences of home (with some concessions), plus tons of work space, but it's also hot and there are many more bugs here than I'm used to in Florida.....I've gotten used to being terribly hot, being dive-bombed by horse flies constantly (mean SOB's that they are), and all manner of other bugs just landing on you in 105 degree studio heat when you're sweating like a stuck pig....oh, and since we're visiting, that sweaty stuck-pig-frustrated-moment when you're basically in as few clothes as you can get away with without be naked (no matter how fat or bloated you feel at the moment) is exactly the moment when some distant relation decides to show up and say how happy they are to see you (and poke around to see what the crazy artists who live in the garage are doing....)

That being said, I love being here in the summer. My creativity kicks into full swing and I spend much more focused time creating. In just the few weeks we've been here, I already feel like I'm ticking the things off my list that have long been pushed by the wayside. (new and better shop photos? check.) (listing jewelry that has been made for months? check.) that component idea that I worked up months ago? check and made a whole bunch!)

Been playing with riveting polymer clay pieces.

Artists have long sought solitude in the form of retreats and artist residencies as a way to enhance their work and find time to work on new ideas. I'm often the target of poking and jokes from family and friends because I'm always toting along a bag of art supplies or something to work on wherever I go. Often times, I don't get any time to work on things I bring but many times I do and I find these times are when my greatest ideas come along...

Hope you are enjoying your summer so far!

Tassel-ations......

Tassels are a very popular trend at the moment in jewelry design. I love the gentle swaying look of them and they tend to suit the style of the jewelry I create. You may remember this post from awhile back I posted about how to make leather tassels.....

Since I'm a consummate mixed media artist and frequent visitor to thrift stores and estate sales, I've amassed something like this......

As I'm sure some of you might relate. Embroidery thread or cotton perle (the more twisted variety) is useful in many applications.....but today, I want to share with you a way to make your own handmade tassels in a variety of ways....to help you use that stash of threads you may or may not have....


You could make your own tassel caps if you're feeling so inclined....for this purpose, I have used either no caps or pre purchased end caps....commonly sold as bead caps or kumihimo ends or caps.

Here are several different ways to use your tassel jig!


I built a simple jig from finishing nails and a scrap of wood.

Using short finishing nails, I nail them in at premeasured lengths. I made lengths of 4" , 5" and 8". Depending on the way you knot it at the end, you will end up with one fat tassel or two smaller tassels that will be half of the length, or one very long tassel that is the same length of your nails.

Be careful not to use nails that have too large of a nailhead, as it will be difficult to remove them when you're finished. I also marked the half way point to help me find the center.

Begin by taking your embroidery thread and wrapping it around both nails and tying a slip knot in the center and pulling it tight.

Continue wrapping the tassel round and round. I prefer nice thick tassels but it also depends a little on the size of your caps. When you're done wrapping, simply snip your thread off at one of the nail ends. It won't unravel.

If you're using a cap that already has a loop on top, you can use a little more thread to tightly tie a square knot around the center mark. Cut the ends at the nailheads and fold in half to make your tassel. Test your tassel to make sure it fits nice and snug. Add glue to your beadcap and let dry.

If you're using a bead cap, use a length of wire and TIGHTLY wire wrap a loop at the center point. Feed your wire through the top of your cap and wire wrap a loop to connect.

If you want to attach a jump ring, tie a slip knot and begin wrapping the end around the tassel to make a nice collar. I use an upholstery needle to make this step a bit easier. Finish with a double knot using your needle to go back through the last ring on the collar. Snip your thread and add a bit of glue (I use E6000 or GS Hypo) Repeat on the other end to secure.Cut your tassel at the half way point and GENTLY remove it from the nail heads, taking care not to snag any threads. I found using the upholstery need helps me remove it a bit easier. Add a jump ring and close.

Trim the ends of your tassels so they are nice and even! You're done!

Want to use leather and bead caps? Erin Siegal posted a great diy for making leather tassels, with suede and leather lace. 

Art Jewelry Boot Camp: Fine Finishings Week 1

Welcome to Week One of our new Art Jewelry Bootcamp: Fine Finishings!!! If you missed Staci's post last week about this new bootcamp, I encourage you to go read it, because all of our members at LMAJ have a unique and diverse perspective to draw from.

 I'll be back with you tomorrow to share some wordy and philosophical perspectives about fine finishings but today I want to talk about:

 WIRE GAUGES.

 Too Thin?

 Too Thick?

 Just Right?

 Let's talk about basic wire gauges.... There are at least 3 realms of standard gauges at the minimum you need to have in your basic toolbox for basic wirewrapping and art jewelry making. As an artist develops his or her skills and particular style, they usually add more gauges to round things out.

This is a VERY old piece of mine that used very thin (TOO THIN in my opinion now!) wire to wrap the bails of the pendant. I'm guessing it was 24g since there are also wrapped pearls in this piece. You can tell I compensated by wrapping it twice and 3 times through the holes, but I'm glad my work has evolved since then!!!!

20-21g. 
20-21 gauge wire is the widely accepted standard for earring wires. Larger gauges, such as 18 or 16 will stretch, irritate, or even tear the majority of customers while smaller gauges such as 22 will be too thin and will not enjoy longevity or will bend easily. This standard gauge also works well for wire wrapping large hole or ethnic beads. 20-21g when formed and properly work hardened either by chasing, hardening with a mallet and tumbling will produce a sturdy and beautiful finished ear wire.

These are handmade earwires I make from 20g brass wire.

22-24g. 
This is the perfect wire wrapping gauge for most bead stringing and basic bead wire wrapping applications. 22g will fit most gemstones and art beads and has a heavy enough presence to balance the work. Certain gemstones, like pearls and tiny finer semiprecious stones may require even a 24g. You may also find you lean towards 24g if you have a tendency to work very small or do very delicate work.

This is an older piece of mine but has a wide variety of wire gauges. The urn shap was formed from 16g brass wire, the Buddha pendant was wrapped with 20g, and the small glass beads were wrapped in 24g.

This is a more recent piece where I used 16g  copper wire to form a sturdy wire wrapped bail for this pendant while I wrapped the beads in 22g wire.

16g-18g. This is the perfect basic starter HEAVIER gauge wire for beginner smaller clasps, links, heavy jumprings, and beginning heavier wirework. It is generally still malleable enough without a torch annealing to wrap large bails, make wire wrapped links and connectors on their own without the use of other beads.

Staci used 18g to wrap these pieces. It is a bit lighter than 16g but allows her the flexibility to securely wrap these large pendants together.

Once you begin adding and refining your wire toolbox, you'll rely on your own judgement and burgeoning expertise to acquire a broader knowledge of different wire gauges and how useful they are in your particular piece or work!

Do you have any favorite wire tips when selecting the best solution for a piece? We'd love to hear your ideas in the comments below!!!

Beginner Tips for Asymmetry in your Jewelry Design

Yesterday, Staci introduced our first boot camp for 2014 where we'll discuss asymmetry in your design.

by Barbara Bechtel

Finding the correct balance in a piece may be a difficult thing for some designers but today, I'd like to provide some tips as a springboard for you to think of asymmetry in a new light.

First, let's discuss symmetry and asymmetry. In my opinion, people often think of symmetry as balanced and asymmetry as imbalanced, but this is incorrect. Both aspects, when used in a dynamic and skillful way can lead to balance and this is one of the keys to proper design.

Think of the human face. Generally speaking, our faces are symmetrical. When divided by a center line, they are like halves that make up a hole.

Now if we add in hair, which can be styled in various ways, often parted on one side, we can add an element of asymmetry to the appearance. The balance is not disturbed because design is often taken into account when styling and cutting the hair as a whole. A skilled stylist will take into account the shape of face and head, the volume and natural way a person's hair grows to make a style that could very well be asymmetrical but also balanced.

To me, whenever people seem stumped with coming up with a interesting asymmetrical design, it often appears in necklaces (could have something to do with it being worn on an area of the body that divides the natural symmetry of the human form?)

Rebecca Anderson of Songbead regularly uses beautiful asymmetry in her bracelet designs.

1) Stop thinking of necklaces as necklaces.It always seems natural to design necklaces symmetrically. Part of that has to do with the weight of the necklace being distributed in an even fashion so it wears correctly. Instead, try thinking of your piece not as a necklace, but perhaps as a bracelet. I regularly see more asymmetrical ideas in bracelets that could easily translate into interesting and compelling necklace designs.

An uneven number of these lovely turquoise beads led me to make this design that clasps on the side.

2) Don't design based on a "focal". Rather than beginning a necklace design by selecting a focal element, design from a different part first. Select a beautiful clasp or some beautiful beads you've been struggling to use, and challenge yourself to place them in an area of the necklace you wouldn't ordinarily i.e. putting the clasp on the side or using a interestingly detailed bead in another area first before you think about the main part of the necklace.

This piece started with trying to find a way to use the watchmaker's tin and the section of spoon handle on the left.

Designed as a variation of an example for a tutorial by Lori Anderson,  this piece combines several different sections of  waxed linen combined with lots of tiny elements that create a flowing cohesive asymmetrical design.

3) Focus on using several different connections/methods in one piece. For example, instead of wire wrapping all the elements in a piece, perhaps you will use a combination of rivets and metal links. If you're more of a basic "stringer", think about using more than one type of stringing material in your piece such as a combination of waxed linen and beading wire. This will lead you to design problems that you might have to solve by designing a piece that will take you outside of your symmetrical "zone".

Do you have any favorite tips on asymmetry to share? We'd love to hear them in the comments!

New Polymer

by Barbara Bechtel

Today I thought I would show you some of my most recent polymer clay beads. Admittedly, for most of the last year, I haven't been making much new polymer clay work and have mostly been working in copper. A recent injury has kept me sidelined for several months, and once I started feeling a bit better but still couldn't get into my metal studio, I felt that polymer itch.

This is actually the front and back sides of a double sided focal donut.

Not wanting to burn myself out again, I started in on creating some new color palettes. My polymer clay has always been an extension of my background as a painter and I prepare each piece almost as a mini canvas, spending the majority of the time preparing, building the base, and layering and creating depth through the surface treatments in layers of color and translucency through the careful selection of a color palette.

Transparency and opacity are very important in the colors I select and how much I remove or add to each surface.

At the current moment, I'm not getting to wild with the shapes and forms, but instead using the same or similar forms, really searching for and working beyond the obstacles of each palette. I almost like to think of them as tiny sketches or color studies.

If you'd like to see more of my recent explorations in color, I encourage to pop over to my Facebook page and check out more of the photos there!

Art Jewelry Boot Camp: Easy No Solder Hoop Photo Tutorial

by Barbara Bechtel

I noticed lots of positive comments (here and on our Facebook page) about boot camp posts where no soldering is used.

I rarely solder my hoops and while I sometimes use a tube rivet to add a little something extra, it isn't necessary. This style of hoop is perfect if you're just starting out with a torch since we're only using it for annealing. It also makes a nice petite drop with a lot of presence.

Begin with 2- 2" lengths of 10g wire. You can use up to 14g. for a lighter drop.

Anneal your wire with the torch until glowing and quench.

Using your hammer and bench block, flatten the ends of each wire until they're nice and thin.

If you're metal begins to get tough, anneal again.

File the burs from the ends of the wire to make a nice round curve. Anneal one more time.

Using your round nose pliers, find the center of your wire and bend in half around the based of the pliers to make a U shape.

Using your flat or chain nose pliers, slightly bend the flattened ends out straight.

....So it looks about like this.

Grasp both ends with your flat pliers and squeeze to meet in the center. 

 

 

 

 

Next, using a drill or punch, make a small hole in the top to hang.

Hammer the drop area near the curve to flatten it slightly and work harden it (it should already be pretty work hardened if you're using 10g). Next pickle or clean to removed the fire scale. I wait until the very end to pickle since I usually anneal them 3-4 times. Finish to your liking. (I antiqued mine in liver of sulphur)

Finish simply by attaching to earwires, doing a simple wire wrap as I did. Adding charms to the droplet at the bottom would also be cute!

Hope you enjoyed and I'd love to see what you make! Don't forget! Next week is our Boot Camp Blog Hop! Make sure you add your photos to our Flickr group or post them on Monday and come back here to add your link!