Steel Clay: A Peek into my Playtime with a new (to me) Metal Clay

by Staci Louise Smith

I have been playing in metal clay for almost 13 years now.  I just dabble really.  I started out using PMC and have moved to copper and bronze clay with the rise of silver prices (and the size of my pieces growing each year!)

I found that when I started PMC there was a world of books and tutorials and information on the clay- how to use it and fire it.

However, when the base metal clays began to take stage, there was barely anything out there on them.  I think because there are so many, and some of them, like bronze, can be finicky, there is just no sure fire way to get it right each time (pun intended!)  Firing bronze takes some real trial and error to figure out how to properly fire your pieces.

(one of my bronze moons below)

In the process, I have tried white copper clay, because I wanted a silver substitute.  I didn't like it.  It tarnishes a bit like silver plate pieces do, and I didn't like the look of that (sort of a brown tarnish).

So I finally took the plunge and bought some steel clay.  I have been checking into Hadar Jacobson's steel clay on and off for years, but it always was a deal breaker for me, because it said it was brittle after being fired.  To me, steel should be strong, and I want my metal clays coming out of the kiln with all the qualities of the metals they are. 

http://www.cooltools.us/Hadar-s-Clay-Quick-Fire-Steel-XT-50-gram-p/stl-011.htm

Well, I checked recently to see what is new in the steel clay world, and found she made low shrinkage XT steel clay now, and it says its sturdy enough to stand on its own as a base.  So I bought some- back in August.  I was hoping to have some NEW steel pieces to sell at Beadfest, and jumped right into making a batch.  However, when I went to fire it in my kiln, I realized it fires WAY higher then bronze and my kiln wouldn't go that high.

(Steel clay low shrinkage XT fires around 1700-1750 degrees F).

So, after Beadfest I invested in a new kiln for myself.  Not only can it do steel clay, but it can also do ceramic.  (I bought ceramic clay as well, I can't wait to play with that!)  

Last week I finally hooked up the new kiln, made some more steel clay components, and tried out my new ceramic firing vessel at the same time! 

I must say, I LOVE how they turned out.  

Now, I know that steel rusts.  So, I wasn't sure how quickly this would rust, or how much I would have to seal it to prevent it from rusting.  

Well, let me tell you, it rusts pretty fast!

After tumbling the steel, I took it out and set it on a paper plate and paper towel to dry out a bit.  I didn't get in to sand and polish it right away.  By the time I got in here, about an hour later, it was already rusting.  It didn't rust much on the pieces, but the water that was draining off was rusty.  You can see here on the plate the rust that was left.

So I put them back into the water in hopes they would stop rusting.  I pulled each one out as I was ready to sand and polish it and dried it off really good.

Then I used a fine sanding pad to buff the high spots

.

Then I used a polish cloth to shine it up a bit

then they looked like these

After that I used Clear Guard to seal them.  I left two unsealed, and lightly sprayed them with water.  After a couple days, they look like this.  There is some slight rust in the unsanded recessed areas.

 I need to put another coat of sealer on the others before I test them.  Once I have sealed them a few times, I want to spray them, and put some in water, and see how it holds up to rust.  

In the meantime, here are my thoughts so far on the Low Shrinkage Steel XT:

1.  It is easy to mix and work with.

2.  It fires in one stage at full ramp, so that is a perk for me

3.  It does require a kiln that fires up to 1750 F

4.  It must be fired in carbon

5.  I really like the antique look of the metal once cleaned up and can see it fitting in with my work

6.  My only hesitation about it is rust.  So, I will work on making sure I find a way to create with it and not have it change over time.  (I will do a follow up on the post once I experiment some more)

For more information on Hadar's clays and how to fire them, check here

http://www.cooltools.us/v/vspfiles/assets/images/hadars_clay_instructions1.pdf

Stay tuned for a follow up post about how the steel clay holds up once sealed!  

Just a little bit about us.......

by Staci Louise Smith

I just got back from Bead Fest, where I was both vending and teaching.  If you want to read about the fun trip from a behind the scenes perspective, you can check out my personal blog here

http://www.stacilouise.blogspot.com/2015/08/bead-fest-blood-beads-and-beady-friends.html

There is something really energizing about being around other creative people.  Bead Fest, as I am sure other bead shows and guilds are too, is just buzzing with energy.  Everyone is happy, and friendly, and you can stop just about anyone to talk about what they made in class or what or who they are wearing!  

While I was there I met a lot of new people, and directed many of them to this site.  So, I just wanted to take a minute to talk about our little creative group here.  Love my Art Jewelry is made up of a variety of artists from many different backgrounds.  We try to share what we have learned, and hopefully save you some of the trial and error we have all inevitably experienced.  

Did you know we have a great tab at the top of the page for "tutorials"?  Here you will find a TON of information on wire working, soldering, tools, making clasps, resin, polishing, antiquing, metal clay, making molds and much much more.  

If you search the blog you can find things about applying to juried shows, outdoor show set ups and tips, and marketing information.

You can also click on the "shop" tab to find links to all of our shops.  There you will find tutorials for purchase, jewelry, beads and other supplies.

Are you interested in becoming a guest blogger on our blog?  check out the "guest" tab to see how.  We would love to "meet" you and see what you have to share!

Anyhow, I hope you enjoy the blog and find a little community here that supports you and helps you to learn and grow !!!!!

Happy Creating!!!!

White Copper Clay: A New Medium

by Staci L. Smith

White copper clay is a new product in the family of metal clays.  It is mostly copper, with some nickel added in to give it the white color.

I know there have been other white metal clays out, but for various reasons I steered clear.  The brand I purchased is the brand I am familiar with and use for bronze, copper and PMC.

www.cooltools.us 

Now, similar to when I started using bronze clay, there is not a lot of information out there about this product yet.  Actually, other then the instruction on the package insert, there is none.  

So of course I bought some, and thought I'd figure it out.  

Base metal clays are known for being finicky.  There is no set firing schedule that works for every clay, every kiln and every piece created.  Its a lot of learning your kiln, your beads, and adjusting the firing.  Though the package insert I believe does give you guidelines for adjusting the firing.  

White copper clay, does not.  It has one set of very simple straightforward instructions.

I set out with many questions:

You can read my initial blog post here.

Ok- so where do I start?  

Working with the White copper clay it looks mostly like traditional copper clay.

Working with it was similar to the base metal clays I use, I'd say it was a cross between copper and bronze.  Copper being easy to shape and smoother feeling, and sticking to itself nicely, bronze being more dry /firm, and not wanting to stick to itself at all.

Of course, you would think that since it was my first time working with something new I'd just make some charms and test fire them, right?  You would think......but alas, I seem to like to make things hard on myself (and honestly, I wanted to find out as much as possible right away about this medium).  

I made pieces that would be riveted together by heating ball head pins, made pieces that would get ring shanks soldered to them and make rings, attach balls with slip, ect.....  I did make some charm like things too though!

I fired them according to the instructions.  First phase is a low fire on a stainless steel mesh in the kiln.  Then you take them out and put it in carbon for the second phase.  

When I took out my pieces they were NOT white or pewter colored.  The ones on the bottom of my container (where my kiln seems to be the hottest) were covered in copper flecks, that were raised.  They were shaped like the carbon (I used magic carbon) and almost looked like they electroformed to the carbon.  so when the carbon was washed off, it left little raised metal pieces stuck to the surface.  And they were sharp too!

Most of the pieces had this.  As I got to the top pieces, there was less of it.  However, problem number 2......

They all looked rosy, or more like a bronze then a pewter color like they were supposed to come out.  And some were very mottled too, which happens with my bronze sometimes, but it cleans up well.

So I brass brushed them and tumbled them like I usually do.  They still looked bronze.  So I pickled them.  STILL looked like bronze.  So I had to get out my dremel and polish discs and grind off the surface coating, and voila!  There was that silver color.

after brass brush and tumble and grinding, you can still see the copper flecks

So, I am pretty sure they over-fired.  Its like brass, which is a mixture of copper and other metal.  When  you overheat it, the copper rises to the surface, and nothing takes it off other then grinding or polishing away that whole layer of metal.  I think that is what happened here.  However, I still don't know why I got the 3-d effect of the copper pieces bonding to the carbon.  If a reduced heat doesn't solve the problem, I may try another carbon.

So I cleaned them up with the dremel, tumbled them a little more, and was ready for test #2. 

Soldering.

Of course, I wanted to make a ring, and of course, it was sort of complex in shape.  I wanted two ring bands, and a small bezel, all of which required consecutive solder joins.  Well, i proved my theory of copper rising to the surface with heat, and had to grind off a layer each time I heated it!  It took forever, but it worked, and now I have a ring I LOVE.  So, it can be done, but its a lot of work and clean up, like brass.  It does however, solder well.  Very much like copper.  Takes longer to heat up, but HOLDS the heat once it gets there.  So I always let it cool before quenching.  If you quench too quickly, the piece is still so hot, the solder is still liquid and it may move or unbond before its set.  Something I learned the hard way working with BIG pieces of bronze and copper.

mid-clean up post soldering.  You can see the VERY copper looking part that wasn't cleaned up yet.  The entire white copper clay piece looked like that. (and yes, it is a messy ring, just for me, I was in a hurry)

Here it is all done though, I didn't know if it would co-operate, but I MADE it work.

Here are all the ring shapes I made

Now to wear my ring all the time and see how it wears- does it make me rashy, does it tarnish, does it NOT tarnish?  Test Test Test.  (this months Boot Camp, Fine Finishings is about putting out quality work, and quality control tips to make your work lasting and high quality!  Testing is something I cannot recommend enough!)   I cannot express how important this is before you sell new work!!!!

I also made this, which required some heat, but not as much as solder, and this cleaned up much easier, no grinding or sanding required.  Just some pickle.

Ok- antiquing the white copper clay.

I only use liver of sulfur to antique my metals.  I don't like to use anything that is really strong in my house.  even my pickle solution is very mild.  I know that nickel silver is REALLY hard to antique, and haven't had success doing it with LOS.  

So I slathered on some really strong LOS gel, let it sit for 10 minutes or so, and nothing.   So I took it and rinsed it with piping hot water.  It instantly turned all kinds of colors and then darkened. 

Ahhh.......this was key for me.  I would not use a silver toned product that could not be antiqued!!!!

Then I just polished with a silver polish cloth like I normally do, and I was a happy girl!

Now I need to see if a sealer is required. I don't want it to keep darkening like bronze can.  Maybe it will be a slow oxidation like silver.  Maybe it won't oxidize at all?  I can't wait to find out.

I will be doing yet another follow up post when I try to fire the remaining pieces at a lower temperature.  

I hope all my experimentation helps someone else.  My kiln actually requires me to fire my fast fire bronze at a little bit of a higher temp.....so, if this does better lower, that is really odd.  Stay tuned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wrapping up the Bead Show

by Staci Louise Smith

After endless bead making, and posting about bead making- the Berks Bead Bazzar is here and gone.  It was a fabulous time, as always!

I was happy with how my booth turned out, I ended up with a lot more beads then fit on the 6' table!  So I had to stack and be creative.  I used my folding book shelves on part of the table, and then used a shelf the hubs made me- but I altered it to be higher.  I added a crate on the other side as well.  I made the shelf higher and removed the slats from the back of the crate to allow me to see my customers better.  Everything is so high once you use table risers!

Since my beads are unusual, I like to have lots of jewelry samples so people can envision them in actual jewelry.  

Diana of Suburban Girl Studio was my neighbor.  Her booth looked sharp, I love her magazine display!!!  

Jenny Davis-Reazor was next to her - her booth is always full of magical fun.  I like that she labels things...so organized!

Next to her were Patti Cahill and Joan Miller

So it was nice, we had a great section of Artisans all together- (but there were many many more!!)

Even my lovely daughter had a little table, thanks to Joan Miller for thinking of her!

I was certainly a proud mama!  I even walked away a couple times and found her explaining my beads to my customers for me!  What a great little helper! (and she is only 9)

I came home with some great goodies- as always.

(show and tell time)

i got a nice tray of art beads- including an order from Marsha Neal Studio that takes up most of the tray!  Top right corner is some great Suburban Girl studio beads, top middle is Joan Miller, Top right is Jenny Davis-Reazor (she made the fox!!!) 

I also couldn't resist Grep Graup's bin of odd cabs.  You know odd and unusual is where i live in my designs!

(the grey druzies in the bottom left corner were from Mamania)

I had another tray full for the boys, who don't get to come with me.  They LOVE the cool rocks I find them in Greg's stash!

I also found a GREAT deal on pearls at Mamania's.  As well as some other gemstone strands.

I think that about wraps it up.  I am totally inspired now and cannot wait to catch up on things so I can make jewelry with my new beads.  Now its time to start getting ready for jewelry show season.

If you are interested, I am will be posting trays of beads up for sale on my facebook page later today, and listing in etsy early next week.  I have lots left to offer to all of you who couldn't make it to the show.

Diana is also listing some beads today or tomorrow in her etsy shop, so check in for new art beads.

Thanks for letting me go on and on about the show!  It was certainly consuming all my time and brain power.  I am slowing switching gears- back to jewelry and other art!

I Wanna Do that AGAIN!

by Staci Smith

Ever make something in polymer or metal clay, that you wished you could make again?  Well, I have, and I have found that two part molding compound is my friend.

 

I use it ALL the time.  I make most of my own textures, stamps and molds and it is something that I do not live without.

 

Yesterday I tried my hand at it using a more three dimensional, and detailed item that I made.  I thought I'd share how easy it is to make a mold of your beads so you can easily reproduce them.

 

Here is what I made free form, in polymer clay.  (It's a lotus flower, not sure if you can tell or not).  I baked it, and wanted a way to make more without so much time invested into it.

So I got out my two part molding compound- it is a silicone product.

 

Use a designated plastic spoon to scoop some out of each.

 

Make sure you have an even amount of each color.

 

Mix them together.............

 

until they look like this (some brands are yellow and will turn light yellow)

 

Next flatten it a little (not too much) and press it over your item.  Try to make sure it covers all the parts, and in this case, because it was very 3-D, in all the crevices. 

 

Then leave it sit.  The package says it takes 5 minutes to set, but I think its still too soft at that point and find 20 minutes to work best.

 

Voila!  You have a mold.  This one got a bit messy, I had to clean it up a little byt trimming some extra silicone off.

 

To test my mold, I pressed some new polymer clay into it, and got this.........

 

I am pretty happy with it.  I needed to use my needle tool and such to clean it up a bit, since the edges have excess clay, but it is still much quicker then starting from scratch!

 

I am going to try to use it in metal clay too.

 

So, remember- molding putty is your friend!

 

And saving time with the production, allows me more time to paint and create and make pieces like this with it.

 

 

 

 I leave you with Peace Lotus, my newest design.