Boot Camp: Peyote Hoops Photo Tutorial

In my post this weekend, I promised to put together a photo tutorial for creating a hoop in peyote stitch like the one used in this clasp.

For a re-hash of how to do the peyote stitch, visit my beaded bead tutorial for LMAJ (the link will open in a new window so you won't lose your place here).   These hoops use both the basic even-count peyote and the zipping up technique discussed in that post. Officially, the stitch we will use is known as tubular peyote.

I'm going to show you how to bead these two hoops:

The one in the back - which is the one I show "in progress" below - uses size 10 and size 11 cylinder (in this case, Miyuki delica) beads, resulting in an approx. 32mm ring.  The smaller hoop in front uses size 11 cylinder (again, Miyuki delica) beads and size 15 seed beads (also Miyuki), resulting in an approx. 22mm ring. Please note that a change in either the number or size of beads used will change the ring diameter.  Experiment. ;)

Step 1:  Thread your needle with a comfortable (no more than 1.5 yards) length of beading thread (I used 6 lbs Fireline in this example).

Step 2:  String on 50 of the larger beads (turquoise size 10 delicas, in this example) and close the ring with a knot.

  
Step 3:  Take your needle through 4-6 beads.  (While this step is optional, it does seem to secure the circle of beads a bit more and eases the beading process, in my opinion. I know some beaders who only use the knot; others who will take the needle through the entire circle of beads once more. No rules. No bead police.)

Step 4:  Using peyote stitch, add one bead at a time, 25 times. The photo shows the first two beads added to what now becomes Row 3 of beading.

Step 5: Unlike in flat peyote, we don't turn our beading when we come to the end of a row to start a new row.  In tubular peyote, we use what is known as a "step up" when we hit the dead end of our row. In order to start the next row, we take our needle through the last bead in the row below

and then through the first bead in the row we just completed (the step up).

Step 6: Bead two more rows using the larger beads, for a total of five. (You can count peyote rows on the diagonal.)

Step 7:  Using the smaller beads (in this case, lime size 11 delicas), bead one row.

The beading starts to curve in on itself a little. That's what we want, so don't worry.

Step 8:  Move your needle down (across) to what was your first row of beading.

Step 9:  Using the smaller beads, bead two rows.

These two rows curve in even more than the one row of smaller beads on the other side. This is a good thing.

Step 10:  We need to zip the top and bottom of our hoop together, joining the beads on the interior of the hoop.  This is fiddly work. Go one bead at a time. Go slow. Enjoy the meditation. Do not rush yourself. Do not force the beads. Remember to breathe.

Step 11:  Weave in your threads. Cut. Enjoy the results.

The smaller of the two hoops I showed you at the beginning is made using the same basic bead counts, except the number of rows used changes:  This uses four rows (instead of 5) of the larger beads, flanked by one row and three rows (instead of 2) of the smaller beads.

This is how I make peyote hoops.   Could you start with the inner (smaller) beads and then add the rows of larger beads, zipping them together on the outside of the hoop?  Probably. I just find it easier to add small beads to a row of large beads than vice versa.  Is the number of rows written in stone? NOPE.  Neither is the number of beads in the starting rows (just make sure it is an EVEN number).  I did try this basic technique for a bangle and it did not work, so there is a point at which the outer and inner diameters no longer want to play nice together.  I do not know what that point is.  If you find out, let me know, please. ;)

If you're still with me, you have the patience of a bead weaver .... go bead some hoops!