Hold Your Fire! Cold Connection with Micro Screws by Karen McGovern

Welcome to our next BOOT CAMP!  This go round we are going to show all sorts of amazing ways to create using cold connections.  Cold connecting is awesome.  The term refers to joining metals and other materials without heat. The minute I read Making Connections by Susan Lenart Kazmer, I was totally hooked on using rivets and screws in jewelry connections.  Especially since at that time I had never used a torch and was actually too scared to try soldering.  My, how times have changed!  While I do a fair amount of soldering in my work now, I still use cold connections whenever I can.  They are quick; and require so much less finish work than hot (solder) connections (no fire scale, no pickle!). 



A variety of designs I have created using micro screws...

For the purposes of this post I will be discussing and showing how to use micro screws in jewelry design.  This boot camp is going to be full of cool ideas (see what I did there??) so I hope you will follow all the Monday posts—rivets are coming!

Micro screws are really gaining popularity in jewelry design.  Objects and Elements is a great source for brass and steel micro screws and nuts in a variety of lengths.  Nunn Design offers brass and copper micro screws in a medium length.  Just found out about the copper—my order has been placed!  The screws come in a standard 1/16^th size, listed at O and E as short and long lengths.  I usually default to the long length; it’s easier to trim excess than to come up short when stacking and connecting elements in your design.

The look of micro screws is a bit industrial, which I love, but the screws are tiny enough not to overwhelm a design.  They are perfect for connecting metals and components that cannot be soldered together (aluminum, enameled elements), great for adding delicate materials to a design (like paper or resin/plastics), and wonderful to create elevated layers and stacks.  I use micro screws almost exclusively for my line of aluminum embellished cuffs.  So, I will be showing here how easy it is to make a really interesting cuff using a variety of materials all held together with micro screws.
 

What you need tool-wise:  micro screws and nuts in your preferred metal, micro screwdriver, a Dremel, Flex Shaft or EuroPunch tool with a 1/16^th drill bit or setting, wire snips, metal shears, needle file, flat file, medium sanding sponge, round end riveting hammer or chasing hammer, domed face chasing hammer, bench block, steel bracelet bender or mandrel.

What you need materials-wise:  6 x 1.50 inch aluminum bracelet blank (available in many widths, this is just my favorite), 6 x 1 inch (or so) length  metal of your choice to overlay (I am using tin from an old cookie container), embellishments (this can be beads, discs, charms, whatever you like, just make sure they have a 1/16^th hole in them).

Micro screwdriver, aluminum blank, brass micro screws and nuts,
riveting hammer, curved chasing hammer, round nose hammer.

First, I like to texture the aluminum.  I use a curved/domed end hammer for this and usually just hammer on an interesting surface, like the concrete stone pavers outside my garage.  Aluminum textures incredibly easily, so you can use just about anything for a texture plate.  Wood with a deep grain, brick, wire screen, or just a simple hammer texture all look wonderful.  Using a softly rounded hammer insures the inside of your cuff won't be scratched up or marked by the hammer.  Go crazy!  Run the sanding sponge along the edges when you are done to make sure everything is smooth with no rough spots or snags. 

Bracelet blank after texturing.  Using a hammer with a slightly curved
face prevents metal marks from marring the interior of the cuff.

Next, bend the aluminum into a cuff shape.  I have a bracelet bender and it is so easy and quick.  Two bends and I’m ready to go.  I can’t live without my bracelet bender.  I like oval cuffs, but you may prefer a round shape…do what you like! 

Blurry shot of the bender in use, then the finished shaped cuff.  Adjust with
your fingers as needed to get a perfect fit.

Prep your metal overlay.  For this cuff I cut a length of patterned tin from an old cookie container.  I used metal shears to cut the tin.  I like a tapered look to the overlay, so I cut mine a little narrower to one end.  Make sure the metal is filed smooth on the edges, especially with tin, leaving no snags or rough edges.  I round the corners also.  Sanding sponges work great here to finish and soften edges quickly.  If you are using copper or brass, I suggest a lighter gauge than the aluminum base.  I usually use 24 gauge copper and brass. 

Metal shears, sanding sponge, my favorite flat file and the cookie tin material.

*Don’t panic—I’m listing sources at the end* 

EuroPunch tool...love it.  Quick and easy.

Drill or punch two holes at each end of your overlay metal, then bend the metal over the aluminum cuff, centering the overlay top to bottom and end to end.  Once you have the metal placed where you like, mark through the holes at one end to the aluminum using a fine line Sharpie marker.  Drill or punch ONE marked hole in the aluminum, then insert a micro screw from the back of the cuff, through the overlay and add a nut, then tighten.  I learned to place a bit of tape over the screw head to hold it in place.  I have dropped approximately 7,000 micro screws and nuts on the floor under my bench.  On the filthy, bead-ridden, no-man’s land that is my floor…sigh...they are lost forever, or until I clean, so let's just go with FOREVER.  Drill or punch the second hole and repeat with another micro screw. 

Now you have one end in place, smooth the overlay metal to the other end, hold tightly and mark the other end with the Sharpie.  Drill or punch one hole, insert the micro screw, add the nut and tighten.  Finish by drilling or punching the last end hole and assembling the screw/nut as before.

 

 

Now you can really tighten the nuts to the screws.  TIGHT!  I usually hold the excess screw material with my fingers or needle nose pliers and tighten the nut with bent nose pliers until the nut won’t turn anymore.  Then snip the excess screw material to about 2mm above the nut.  Place the cuff on a steel mandrel (I use my ring mandrel) and hammer the excess screw material flush to the nut.  Use a round nose riveting hammer or round nose chasing hammer for this so the metal flares and domes, securing the nut in place. Hammer at an angle, not straight down, to flare and dome the excess metal.  Feel it with your finger—you want the metal to be smooth, no rough edges.  Hit it with a sanding sponge to make it smooth as needed.

Pic on left after cutting excess screw material, getting ready to hammer using
my steel ring mandrel for support from below.  Pic on right shows the screw
material after hammering, flared and smoothed.

Coming along nicely!!  Now to add more stuff.....

You’re basically done!  Now the fun part, adding extras!  I love MaryAnn Carroll’s enamel discs and use them in most of my cuffs (and just about everything else I make).  Here, I chose a nice big disc (1.25 inch) layered with a smaller round I cut from the cookie container cover that I drilled and dapped, and another tiny enamel disc.  Be creative here!  Layer large, flat beads, resin paper, stampings--whatever you can think of--as long as it has a hole big enough for the micro screw.  Position your base disc or bead where you want it on the cuff (I like a slightly off-center asymmetrical look), mark the spot with the Sharpie, then drill or punch a hole.  This time, insert the micro screw through the bead/disc stack from the top down so the screw head shows.  Then insert the screw end into the aluminum, add the nut to the back and tighten as tight as you can with your fingers.  For the final tighten, use the micro screwdriver inserted in the screw head, hold on to the nut with your fingers or pliers, and tighten really snug.  Snip the excess screw material.

Adding elements and using the micro screw driver.  A handy little device!

Now, here it can get interesting.  If you use dapped discs like I did, you will need to create a curved surface in order to set the nut.  The screw head must be supported by a metal surface in order to hammer without cracking or ruining your discs.  So, here’s my solution because I don’t have a ton of fancy tools.  I simply place my round nose hammer in a vise.  Then I invert the cuff, make sure the screw head is right on the ball of the hammer, then hammer and flare the excess screw material to the nut using a riveting hammer or another round nose hammer.  Yes, once you become addicted to riveting you will come up with all kinds of contraptions to get the job done.  Again, make sure there are no rough spots or snags and you are DONE!

It may not be elegant, but it works!

Definitely a balancing act, but you need to support the screw head while
hammering from behind.  Otherwise, you will crack and ruin your stacked elements!

Cold connecting designs are as endless as your imagination.  I’m including pictures here of some of my cold connected designs, and please visit our Pinterest page to see cold connections created by other artists in and out of LMAJ.  Come back often, we have more fantastic cold connection tutorials scheduled exploring tube rivets, nail head rivets and more. 

A recent and favorite assemblage pendant I created using micro screws
and nail head tube rivets.  More on those in future Monday boot camp posts!

Until next time—Keep Calm and Rivet ON!!!

 

Sources:

Micro screws and nuts, hammers, riveting tools/punches:  Objects and Elements, Nunn Design

Aluminum/Brass/Copper bracelet blanks:  Gotta Getta Deal (check out the anodized aluminum in beautiful colors!)

EuroPunch Tool:  These are now available in many places including Michaels, Etsy, Objects and Elements

Dremel, micro screw driver and drill bits:  Any local hardware store
Sanding sponges:  Local hardware stores

FlexShaft:  Shop around, Google it, and Rio Grande has a good selection plus supplies

Copper enamel discs:  MaryAnnCarroll/Artisan Beads Plus

 

Hold Your Fire: Cold Connections Boot Camp

by Staci L. Smith

The next Love my Art Jewelry Boot Camp is all about cold connections- no fire needed!

 

I know as a group we have touched on them here and there, but this month we will be showing you how to use micro-screws, rivets and tube rivets among other ways to connect your metals and create personalized projects for the upcoming holidays- bring on the mixed media!!! 

 

So check back next Monday for Karen's blog on micro-screws. 

 

Here is some of her mixed media work (she's pretty amazing!)

 

 

You can see more of her awesome creations here.

http://www.beadkeepers.com/

 

If you would like to plan ahead, the blog hop for Hold the Fire: Cold Connections will be December 16th.

 

Share you cold connection art works in our flickr group all through boot camp- with a description so we know what you did or learned.  We'd love to see what you make!

 

 

Mixed Metals and Sensitive Skin - Challanges and Solutions by Karen McGovern

I love to mix metals in my designs, and use mostly a combination of copper, brass, nickel silver and aluminum.  Sterling silver and gold are not on the list simply due to the fact that these materials are so CRAZY EXPENSIVE these days.  My goal has always been to create unique AFFORDABLE jewelry.  So, I stick to what I can afford, and can afford to share with my clients at a reasonable price. 

 

There are challenges when working with "non-precious" materials.  Soldering different metals together is a challenge, some heat quicker than others, some simply don't like each other and will BURN INTO ASH before soldering.  Cold connecting with rivets and micro screws is my go-to method of marrying metals most of the time.  It's easy, and I really love the look of rivets as accents. 

 

One challenge I am constantly aware of (and working to overcome) is the skin reaction many people have when copper, nickel and brass touches them.  Many folk's skin reacts badly with these materials, and nothing is worse than having your client's fingers and wrists turn green from wearing your work!  I hate hearing from a potential client that they love a piece of my jewelry, but won't consider buying it because of skin/metal related problems.  So, I work to devise solutions that are both successful and interesting.

 

For many, the go-to solution is layering acrylic sprays and polishes on the finished piece, which works very well, but doesn't last forever.  Rings and bracelets worn consistently over a long period of time will wear away any finish that is applied.  It's inevitable.  Yes, you can tell people to go ahead and spray the piece with Krylon from Michael's, but that is a lot to expect your clients to do.  So, I have a couple tips for those who enjoy working with mixed metals as much as I do:

 

For rings and cuffs made of copper, nickel or brass, I love to line the interiors with transparency film or resin paper.  ArtChix Studios is a wonderful source for beautiful transparency sheets and collage sheets in just about any pattern or theme you can imagine.  Butterflies, birds, text, vintage ladies and more can adorn the inside of your rings and cuffs.  Simply cut to the appropriate size and either rivet in place or use a coating of jewelry resin (like Ice Resin) to adhere the transparency in place. For papers, coat paper with resin first, allow to dry, cut and rivet or resin in place as well.  This will provide an impervious barrier between the metal and the wearer's skin, and add tons of interest to the piece.  Unfortunately, this does not work for fine or thin wire ring bands...haven't solved that puzzle quite yet, but I'm working on it.
 

Assorted papers from the Industrial Chic line. 
The bottom sheet has been coated with resin.

A brass cuff with resin paper set on the interior.

Next is the glory that is aluminum.  Aluminum is quickly becoming a popular metal for jewelry designers for so many reasons.  It's inexpensive, easy to work with, looks like silver, doesn't tarnish and best of all IT'S HYPOALLERGENIC!  I adore aluminum and use it constantly in my work.  I use it as a base for most of my cuff designs, layering copper and brass on top.  Same for pendants.  I try to make sure that whatever part of the design that will touch skin is backed with or made of aluminum.  You cannot solder aluminum to anything, so you'll get very creative with riveting!
 

A variety of aluminum cuffs.  I LOVE ALUMINUM!

This brings me to another point--making the back of your pendants/designs as interesting as the front.  If you have a design that you just don't want framed in aluminum, you can still add an interesting shape or cut-out of aluminum to the back that can't bee seen from the front to act as a buffer between the pendant and skin.  Resin papers and transparency sheet can be used here just like with cuffs and rings.  Again, you are adding dimension and interest to a part of your design that is often left blank and providing a barrier between metal and skin.  What artist can resist a blank surface??  Aluminum can really save the day for you and I urge you to give it a try.  It's available in sheet, wire, and pre-cut shapes all over the Internet.  Textures beautifully too!
 

A added a strip of textured aluminum to the back of this Wolf Totem pendant. 
Simple and effective!

I hope you'll give these ideas a try, and I know your sensitive skin clients (and your pocketbook) will be happy you did!